https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog daily 0.75 2026-01-19 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1946-panthera-nightgown monthly 0.5 2025-09-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/67480f26-72c0-4db3-bbac-0a2a3ec3c983/1946+panthera-09.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/09a5d0de-521d-49bb-8ae6-fff00e8298cf/8d5e0de2235489bcee563cd268d91a18.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c1385dcc-e5f2-444c-8daa-3d574462005c/20241013_112151.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The first step was to seam together the back panel at the center back seam. I used French seam throughout this project due to the sheer nature of the fabric and the delicate nature of the project. (*note* the seam allowance throughout this project is 1/2” unless otherwise noted) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/31d6bb07-f637-48f2-a674-6ee0c1d00828/20241013_113434.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The front and back panels were then seamed together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8e98b99a-5f8b-492f-9ee1-fb3045551abc/20241013_113705.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - Now that the skirt was finished (minus the hem) it was time to move onto the bodice. I started with the back bodice, which was seamed together at the center back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5eb36d9c-aaf8-4d12-b4b4-9272efd602b6/20241013_114506.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The neckline edge was finished by machine using a narrow rolled hem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/46bea666-5772-41c3-b838-b69efb9b6f09/20241013_115930.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - I then moved onto the front bodice. The neckline edge of the cup pieces were also finished by machine using a narrow rolled hem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9f91a75f-6525-4153-8fe3-e43b3ed6ec2c/20241013_120249.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - Now it was time to move on to the fun part of the project, the lace! In order to not rip my hair out while putting it together I used tissue paper as a backing for constructing the lace midriff pieces. I drew out my pattern piece onto some normal tissue paper and then took that to the machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/46d97d02-6b28-4140-a156-e803edad0173/20241013_121143.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - I then started sewing strips of lace onto the tissue paper, lining up the edges to the center front of the panel pieces. I overlapped the lace about 1/8” with the previous piece then sewed that down. This lace is really nice b/c it has a definite border that lent itself nicely to being overlapped in this way. I continued this process until I reached over the edge of the pattern piece I had drawn previously. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3c7a5278-1b42-4a40-91c1-1b39af0a5814/20241013_122147.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - Here is how the panel looked from the back once it was cut out. As you can see from the center front area, the tissue paper easily tore out. In case your lace is particularly delicate you might want to increase your stitch length to ensure the stability of the piece. I used my normal 12 stitches per inch and I have had no issues with wear and tear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5359ae47-91a7-4d63-a149-a4153fd0f1b0/20241013_123355.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - Now that the front lace midriff panel was complete I attached it to the front cup pieces. Before attaching them together the cup pieces were gathered in between the notches to fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b52f2727-4a1b-42d3-92e8-cd6722c2acde/20241013_130104.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - I then bound the edge with bias tape for a clean finish and to prevent fraying. I used about 5 yards of 1” bias tape for this entire project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/43a21960-f917-4b33-a4e7-8ac633466c64/20241013_130401.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - I then constructed the back midriff lace panel in the same way as the front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/be30f444-f43e-4f48-967c-79a9db78cb38/20241013_131204.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The back lace midriff panel was attached to the back bodice, making sure to gather in between notches on the back bodice piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d65fd181-9895-4921-8970-d2633f0a5a99/20241013_131207.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - This seam was bound with bias tape as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/06f73bbc-ccef-4b5b-bc5d-8f07e2ef488f/20241013_131720.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The front and back pieces were then seamed together using French seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d77c54d4-8bbf-484f-892a-7647d1908ceb/20241013_132820.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The next step was to add the straps. My straps were 15” long. They were attached at the front at the points of the cup pieces. The straps were attached by hand and “bound” in bias tape to prevent fraying and discomfort while wearing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f4452f23-84f1-427c-9b5a-3cb6c9246e64/20241013_134138.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The straps were attached to the back at the middle of the back panel. As you can see there was some excess fabric in the back so I made a nice box pleat and slapped the strap on top of it. It was sewn down on the interior of the nightgown by hand and bound using bias tape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/584a10dd-b46a-454b-af28-9cf6dbc3330b/20241013_141720.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The skirt and bodice was then sewn together and bound using bias tape. The skirt was also loosely gathered to fit as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ac28220d-df8b-41a0-8e5d-4c2bfea3bb3e/20241013_141730.jpg Blog - 1946 “Panthera” Nightgown - The final step necessary to create this nightgown was to hem it. I did a 1/2” rolled hem by machine. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1950s-evening-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1955-lei-poo-dress monthly 0.5 2025-01-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/79b6ee14-a79f-4e06-8a2f-07555d71f98b/1955+_Lei+Po%CA%BBo_+-01.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f99d26ec-ff02-49a9-afc2-a05da4e2652f/7fb8472d4bf6a27752f595a9d4765497.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/495ff145-7839-40be-bcab-2069f2eeda66/20240425_150609.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The first step was to cut out the tiers for the skirt. Since I wanted a ~29” finished length the math for the tier length came out as follows: bottom tier 11.5” (includes 1.5” for hem and seam allowance) middle tier 10.25” (includes s/a) top tier 10.25” (includes s/a) The top tier was as wide as my fabric, which was 54”. The middle tier was two lengths of the fabric width, at 108”. The bottom tier was four lengths of the fabric width, at 216”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f81e2c53-b0ea-4a91-99a1-030a12c62055/20240425_153156.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - To avoid having seams run down the center front of the skirt, I cut the wide panels in half and staggered the join spots to be less visible (aka at the side.) After constructing the panels I went to hem the skirt. It is much easier to hem the skirt at this stage before gathering starts to get involved. I sewed some bias tape along the bottom tier and some 1” horsehair braid to the inside for structure. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/16c03ad6-2ef1-4399-a7c6-5825130c7daf/20240425_155156.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The hem was then tucked under and the bias tape tape folded under and sewn by machine. . https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/df4545b9-25b6-4b45-8570-640657f72df8/20240425_163209.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The bottom tier was then gathered and attached to the middle tier. (the seam allowance throughout this project is 1/2” unless otherwise noted) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/adc09861-bee5-48bc-ab96-4c56dd667eef/20240425_164300.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The next step was to cut the contrasting trim from some solid Kona cotton. In total I used about 7.5 yards of 1.5” trim on this project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6fe111aa-459c-43d7-9d28-97fd0899f933/20240425_165343.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - That trim was then ironed into 7/8” “bias” tape. It was not actually cut on the bias, but rather cut on the straight grain. Because it was not going over curves I did not see the need to make more work for myself. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1948eb0b-c2fc-4e15-9aec-1d1347944ee5/20240425_172014.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The trim was then top-stitched along the seam that joined the bottom and middle tiers together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1a31733b-6959-41f1-8aa6-6096956eaf64/20240425_175501.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - I cut the top tier into thirds, thus creating side seams, and attached pockets 2.5” down from the top of the skirt (once sewn to the bodice.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d1315e3e-d1d3-4d7c-81bc-47f816543449/20240426_141618.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The top tier was sewn to the middle tier just as the middle tier was sewn to the bottom. A band of trim was then top-stitched atop that seam. The center back seam of the dress at this point had not been sewn, this makes gathering all of these tiers and sewing on this trim sooo much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a613f35d-806e-4d07-b8a9-52f0c980ac0c/20240426_155211.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - Now it was time to cut out the bodice. The bodice consisted of two back pieces and a front piece with a keyhole neckline. I made sure to line up one of the lei when I was cutting it out so that it aligned with the keyhole. The bodice features cut-in-one sleeves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6357bf36-7038-46a0-b758-b33a3a65b841/20240426_161240.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - After sewing the two back darts (one per piece) I attached some 1.5” trim on the neckline. I am doing this now before sewing on the shoulder seams because having a break in the trim at the shoulder makes adjusting that area much easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a71a09e8-581d-4a26-b1af-17ef4611f959/20240426_162307.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The trim was ironed over and top-stitched to match the stitching on the skirt. Here is how the back pieces looked once that was finished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a31d9f86-1349-4ad3-b677-c2f0ca170bda/20240426_163732.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - I then sewed the darts on the front bodice and attached some trim in a similar manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/679f35ed-ba0c-4d39-a28e-05638f1f0f04/20240426_164742.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - This is how it looks from the front after the trim had been top-stitched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/551f2e0e-dbe9-4506-94bb-dc1ecbb0360b/20240426_165504.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The shoulder seam was then sewn and pressed towards the back. The little raw edge of the trim was turned under and hand-tacked down to prevent it from fraying. The disjointness of the trim does not bother me, I much rather have the ease of alteration. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8facdab6-a173-4593-b57e-f2c94535b419/20240426_170029.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The sleeves were hemmed at this time by turning them under twice and stitching by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6da17c1d-640e-4bc3-aa7f-0f59ba961dcd/20240426_175344.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The next step was to sew the bodice side seam and press them towards the back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c37a07a7-ff90-48fa-a294-8787a4e9bcc9/20240426_181026.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The skirt was then gathered to fit the bodice, matching side seams. The side seams of the skirt were ironed towards the front to help ensure reaching into the pockets would not disturb the lines of the dress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/bf727273-fcb4-43c3-8286-d47a9ee575a8/20240426_184122.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The center back seam was finally sewn and a lapped zipper inserted. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/73c443e8-0cd2-431e-b42b-def20400754e/20240426_184146.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - A label was then put in, completely the dress proper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/03b72e4a-2f61-4bb5-bbca-b835444aba89/20240426_185005.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - Now that the dress was complete it was time to move onto the belt. I cut a 2” wide strip the length of my waist -2” and two ties measuring 2” wide and 44” long. I’d recommend the waist portion of yours to be 1/2” wider, you’ll see why shortly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c182c9ed-6588-428b-8f1a-8b6584182175/20240426_185319.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - I then cut a strip of heavy-weight interfacing 7/8” wide and as long as my waist measurement -2”. The negative ease you’ll want depends on your squishiness. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c0f22a3c-3d88-4bea-835b-17b9c0970a64/20240426_190341.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - I then ironed that interfacing to the waist portion of my belt and top stitched 1/4” away from the edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1ba30d37-55ed-4199-9ab3-c3baad7a01fd/20240426_190945.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The tie portions got folded in half and stitched with an 1/4” s/a. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2779b6c3-a9b7-4b80-840a-284976bfa5ae/20240427_091332.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - The ties were then turned right side out and top-stitched similar to the waist portion of the belt. While sewing the tie portions I decided to make them end at an angle, this helps the bow look nicer when tied. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e594ebd3-e33b-4414-87c1-a7750d278f83/20240427_091343.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - Now this is why I recommended you to make the waist portion of your belt wider than 2”. My edges met rather the fold over each other, so I had to cut another strip of fabric and do double the hand sewing to encase all the belt’s raw edges. If you make this area wider to begin width the edges will simply fold over and encase each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8ab382ea-a0ca-482b-b466-d51bf3272ce4/20240427_091420.jpg Blog - 1955 “Lei Poʻo” Dress - Here is how the belt looked once tied. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1956-koae-kea-dress monthly 0.5 2025-01-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a181c260-3553-48f2-a28e-a3945ddb0adc/1956+Koa%27e+Kea+Dresss+-48.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/72bd1361-f5ec-41b7-8de5-d104d346c3d6/E5A3DB86-CCC2-495B-BAED-0BDE88621E0A-300x300.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3d74c4b3-039c-43bc-afaf-442d7bfa331e/20230716_145150.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Before I could get started on the construction I had to draft the bodice. Here is the finished criss-cross bodice with midriff detail next to my bodice sloper (left). Hopefully the picture and my measurement (in purple) will give you a sense of how I got the final pattern shapes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/357177bd-5a9f-4c8c-8486-f94d43e9b97a/20230716_145245.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I did the same with the back bodice. The were much less alterations because the bodice was going to close in the center back as normal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4c531115-debf-48c5-a503-662928a54e00/20230722_114407.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I then cut out my bodice pieces and my facings. For my facings I simply copy the neckline onto some pattern paper and make sure the facings are 2” finished in width. I also serged all of my pieces to finish them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5491a251-570d-4758-a694-eab4a4759570/20230722_130114.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I started off my sewing with the back bodice pieces. I attached the facings and sewed the darts. (the seam allowance throughout this project is 1/2” unless otherwise noted) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/743c8bde-2c1f-453c-95b5-35886bbd5d68/20230722_130252.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I then moved onto the front bodice and attached the front facings. There were no darts to sew here only some light gathering under the bust https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f1c29076-420a-4f0e-af15-937dd1cc02d6/20230722_131834.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The facing pieces where then ironed under and hand sewn in place. The criss-cross bodice was then sewn to the front midriff piece matching notches. I designed the bodice to cross right at the center front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5109cc69-18d1-4d30-9ef7-c974a60c9e1a/20230722_131850.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I then finished the facings of the back bodice in the same manner and attached the back bodice pieces to the corresponding midriff pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/cc6034fa-2dbc-4c96-991d-55829e10f52d/20230722_132830.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Next step was shoulder seams. The came side seams. Both of them were pressed towards the back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e704c072-96af-47c8-b39f-77a73a418c7e/20230708_113255.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Now it was time to move onto the skirt. The skirt is a gored circle skirt. Each panel is also twice the width it needs to be at the waist so it can be gathered down later for a lovely gathered look, while maintaining the fullness that a gored circle skirt provides. The skirt has eleven pieces: front panel side front panel (x 2) side back panel (x 2) back panel (x 2) pockets (x 4) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8cdee5c9-71bc-4e83-9406-638d55336fdc/20230708_124704.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The front panel was sewn to the side front panels using a 1/2” seam allowance. Two of the pocket pieces were also sewn at the side seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9c47bc25-2c2b-4d7c-a078-1322a3b8beda/20230708_130037.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The back panels were sewn to the side back panels. An ~9” gap was left open at the center back for later zipper installation. The other two pocket pieces were attached at the side seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ebd49e6b-c90c-41b4-88ce-51177e817a70/20230708_131047.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The side seams were then sewn. The pockets were pressed towards the front. This step is important because that is how your hands will enter into the pocket and ironing (and then sewing them) this way means that you using your pockets wouldn’t ruin the lines of your dress! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ad178755-0d0f-45d3-82a3-cf7b2f9aef9b/20230708_163434.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Now it was time to hem the skirt. For me this is an involved process. The first step is sew some pre-packaged bias tape around the hem, right sides to right sides, with a 1/4” allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1c19626a-e5ad-4fdc-aef2-db1010dff1be/20230708_164645.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Then I flip the skirt over and attach some 1” horsehair with the gathering threads facing the bottom of the skirt, because once I turn everything over than that will actually be the top of them. (bear with me) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e939a625-14ce-4d76-98ea-dcd22f4d0a36/20230708_171132.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I then iron the horsehair over and fold the bias tape under, forming a beautifully finished hem that sports some nice body and weight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/909f9805-1dd8-4d64-93b7-21e972c03011/20230708_172701.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The hem is then sewn by machine, 1/8” away from the edge with a larger stitch length given all the layers involved. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/13488cb7-8ef4-45b3-bf54-759b6603b4b1/20230730_142635.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The skirt as then gathered the bodice and sewn. I then trimmed the bodice with some lovely 7/8” white velvet ribbon. I also added a little folded bow to the center front. This trim was sewn on my hand using slip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ad0989ef-1c09-40fe-bf24-bbff6d8fb53c/20230730_142650.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - I then attached the zipper. Don’t worry the little ends were tucked in and finished off screen. Now you might be wondering well what about the sleeves !? Well, I was putting off drafting them and could now do so no longer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/fc839343-06b7-42cf-953d-a209523b38ed/20230730_145427.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Here is what I came up with. The sleeve is a variation of what is called a “tulip” sleeve and features two overlapping pieces per sleeve. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e634ac6c-9422-42fc-b071-d6de2df2c351/20230730_154733.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Here is one of the sleeves cut out and sewn together a the underarm seam. (you’ll see why shortly) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/185bc1c5-39f9-4895-b155-52438ba90fe2/20230730_160217.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The sleeve (which had a 3/4” hem allowance) was hemmed by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e14015cf-e98b-47f2-8432-faa2893fc669/20230730_162323.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - Some more velvet trim was sewn by hand 1/4” up from the bottom of the sleeve. This is why the sleeve was sewn underarm seam first, to make this step easier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/dd5de726-88f8-4aa5-9596-336bb0bef28a/20230730_183724.jpg Blog - 1956 “Koʻae Kea” Dress - The armscyes of the sleeves were then matched up and attached to bodice. Hopefully this close up will give you a better idea of how the sleeves fold over themselves and attach to the bodice. The final step was adding a matching fabric belt (not pictured). https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/muumuu-month-2024 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1714205492809-K9YO3IXTM9HS34MRZFFP/Mu%27u+at+the+Museum+2024 Blog - I Was In a Magazine! #muumuumonth - Make it stand out William Spincola in Kāhala, Amanda Spincola in own design and Linda Spincola in Princess Kaiulani Fashions. Photo: Anthony Consillio https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/vintage-fabric-covered-belts monthly 0.5 2025-08-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d603df57-e7aa-4552-b59a-46a543b4cf9c/IMG_0211.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/50afc752-9367-4bda-a59c-880b56fd1005/20230708_131730.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - The first step is to cut some heavy-weight interfacing 7/8” wide and the length of the interfacing (22”) times two. The finished belt is around 44”. I cut one end of the belt into a point. The interfacing is the ironed onto a 3” cut of fabric with some extra at the end to wrap around the buckle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/59622ead-a095-48be-9713-cd21e73ae0ee/20230708_143119.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I wrap the fabric around the interfacing and secure it with whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0139b825-1094-407e-98ce-0ca9f3a8c69b/20230708_143103.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then cover my buckle. I trace my bucket onto my fabric and leave 1/4” on all side to wrap around the buckle. The vertical strip of 1” fabric you see will be wrapped around the tong, which will be made later. I cover the fabric and buckle with spray adhesive and put them together. I make sure to clip my corners before I spray so everything wraps around smoothly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a57a95b6-218c-4641-9760-b5913ee6c3dd/20230708_143957.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - This is how the buckle looks once those steps are completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/45628f55-ab63-478f-a566-c2a2c0b30981/20230708_151419.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then use the extra fabric I left at the end of the belt in the first step and use that to wrap around the interior vertical bar of the buckle. This is secured with whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/28802797-fd59-441f-9d38-e323983a56fb/20230708_151731.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then make a belt loop from a 1 1/2” wide 3” long strip of fabric. It is stitched together using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2ca6f488-4c4b-4458-a886-cbe7d27db75c/20230708_152014.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then wrap it around the belt and secure the two ends together. I do not fix it to a point of the belt so it can move around freely to anywhere I need it to be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/69204c28-194b-4ff6-9683-f128568fc322/20230708_152112.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then cut a length of 18 gauge aluminum wire for the tong and push a hole in the center of the belt using an awl. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b9cb0696-793e-4d24-a250-022d1b2d3cbc/20230708_152310.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then insert the tong into the belt and see how much of it needs to be covered. I use tiny back stitches to secure the fabric cover to the tong. I then cut away the excess and use fray check on the cut edge. *Future Amanda Note: This method didn’t hold up well with wear and tear, so now I spray paint the tongs a matching color, then coat them with a gloss sealant to ensure the paint doesn’t flake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/be9b292e-34a7-4970-ba14-06f110322838/20230708_152627.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - Here is how the finished buckle looks. I make sure not to punch the hole to big so the tong slides out, if that becomes an issue I use a big of glue around the area to further secure the two points. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/de214c8c-d179-45ff-8423-8cc609d03ecd/20230708_154233.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then four holes in my belt using my 00 size punch. These holes correspond to my waist measurement +/- 1”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/07c7b32c-b145-4408-9373-ed2195a27877/20230708_162807.jpg Blog - Making Belts to Match My Vintage Dresses - I then stitch around the holes with a matching embroidery floss and the belt is complete! https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1950s-morgan-lace-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/50750f23-d2a5-4ea1-a179-9f8d359deb2e/1950s+morgan.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/807b5995-e4b6-4aa7-b7b6-2a3b6af7f32f/Morgan-Library-and-Museum__2018__M1L6658-HDR.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c7536b69-fcfa-4b11-8974-e21da8d8f87d/20230304_205958.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - The first step was to cut out the skirt which was was the full width of the fabric and 29.5” long. I cut two panels, one for the front, one for the back. The back panel I cut in half, because I planned on doing a back zipper for this dress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8be15d95-c526-4f75-b13b-b52a8aacc8e3/20230304_213219.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then cut out four pocket pieces. They were sewn with 1/4” seam allowance 3” down from the top of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/fe755a7e-50ab-411e-8308-2d8fb1e89eea/20230304_215650.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - The front and back panels were then sewn together at the side seams. The pockets were then pressed to the front of the skirt. The white tape you see is a piece of twill tape that I inserted in between the pocket pieces before they were sewn. This is secured when the waist seam is sewn up later on. The tape helps distribute the weight of whatever you put in the pocket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c458186c-2b4d-4a93-a1df-4be273455820/20230304_221728.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then cut the red rayon lining 45” wide and 30.5” long, to account for the need to hem this layer. It was then sewed up in the same manner. This layer did not have pockets because it was just the lining. I then placed the cotton lace skirt on top of the lining and serged the top edge, joining them together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6c4ff0a9-ce1c-4cc7-9563-73695b7b8af1/20230305_171203.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then drafted the bodice, the mockup of which you see here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5e5e61bb-727d-4281-8696-4ec86ec8c3f8/20230305_181238.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then cut out the bodice front, back, and sleeves from the cotton lace fabric and the red rayon lining. The sleeves however were just a single layer of cotton lace. I then serged all the pieces to finish them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/bfd653e1-bf53-4e14-b3fd-fde14bf246b5/20230306_180342.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then sewed the underarm seams of sleeves, then set them aside to work on the rest of the bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e0cb8ef6-c734-4d93-913d-b783335d3f84/20230308_081737.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then flatlined the rayon lining piece with the front bodice. After the flatlining was done I marked the darts with tailor’s chalk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/43770dec-5e75-4a50-b5c3-24dba716450a/20230308_082739.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then flatlined the back piece with some pieces of the cotton lace fabric, because I ran out of the rayon lining. I also marked the darts on these pieces as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0427ff8c-2ccb-4cb1-acbc-6aa04999b47d/20230308_084248.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then sewed the four front darts and fused some lightweight interfacing (2” wide) to the neckline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b1f0807c-3431-498f-a84f-616cd0d3eecc/20230308_084409.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then did the same thing for the back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/149f46e6-bb59-427b-a3ca-60e1b9428eca/20230308_084810.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - After the darts were sewn and the neckline interfaced, I sewed the shoulder seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/58690ec7-f044-4d6c-80ba-26ea4b99b051/20230308_105216.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then used the scraps I had left over (what’s pictured was it) and cut some 3” wide bias stripes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/29c5fcec-addb-4098-b09f-92183f9a94a7/20230308_121623.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then sewed these right sides together with the bodice and flipped them towards the interior, where they were sewn down by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3759b3bd-b933-4e9f-b26a-7858b21fd1fb/20230308_121900.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - After the neckline was handled, I sewed the side seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b2551353-762b-49aa-baf6-80ccc3facd0f/20230308_124320.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - The final step of the bodice was to set the sleeves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d2e71b16-03c1-4508-ab3e-9167f151ece7/20230308_125119.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then folded the back skirt into eight equal sections which were matched up with the pin marks on the back bodice, also folded into eight equal sections. The same process was repeated with the front of the skirt and bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/121e6235-dda7-4f0d-ab73-951f814a47ff/20230308_130539.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - The skirt was then knife pleated into place. I took care to make sure the side seams (where the pockets sat) fell nicely at fold of the pleat so I could access them without disrupting the flow of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a5fee998-d7b7-48fc-90cd-791150660cc4/20230308_132201.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - This was all done flat, without the center back seam of either the skirt nor the bodice being done up. This makes everything sooo much easier. The sewing up of the center back seam had multiple steps involved. I sewed the cotton lace skirt first. Then I the rayon lining. I did this separately so the two skirts could hang independently of each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/eb72e62e-6ddc-43d8-a654-97562b7db95d/20230308_140915.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - I then sewed the zipper in place. (which I have no photo of) What I instead have a photo of is me cutting 7/8” wide strips of heavy weight interfacing to make my belt from. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/aff9a656-ab51-470a-a19f-87e245b033dd/20230308_142232.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - These strips were 22” long therefore I overlapped them by an 1”. After they were overlapped I covered the belt with two layers of the cotton lace fabric. The double layers were to cover up the holes in the fabric so you wouldn't see the interfacing through the belt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/829005f7-7a14-4f96-9ae4-d679a2ef3634/20230308_143951.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c029a64a-11c0-4806-8def-a87dd3ca2241/20230308_144240.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/435c2606-4a81-4494-bd25-302dfe76f8e3/20230308_144612.jpg Blog - 1950s “Morgan” Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/30-makes-in-30-days-part-3 monthly 0.5 2024-10-27 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/muumuu-month-2023 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3d2d93be-356a-4d18-b088-8d921ebfabd6/Screen+Shot+2023-04-08+at+5.23.24+PM.png Blog - I Was In a Magazine! #muumuumonth - Make it stand out Amanda Spincola in her own design / Photo: Sean Marrs Photography https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/30-makes-in-30-days-part-2 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1875-azure-bonnet monthly 0.5 2024-10-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ae74e327-46a6-43d5-a28a-c894987f0966/1875+bonnet.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c3d85c46-ed1b-4fc5-86cd-a7d21b18d456/7c8d914f76c863c743842d726d9f3043.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0a518c6d-afa0-4d6a-9a76-a369888da903/20220905_151926.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - The first step was to cut out the tip, crown, and brim pieces from buckram. The tip piece and brim piece are cut with extra buckram which will be cut and folded over the crown piece, to act stability to the bonnet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/746c0d5a-6dd1-461f-84ec-20a9aa7eb594/20220905_151930.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then cut the pieces from my scraps of silk taffeta (no longer available). I cut out two of each piece, one for the outer part of the bonnet and one for the lining. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/bc810d6d-a2fc-42f1-9cf2-adf5944a73c0/20220905_161710.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - After everything was cut out, I started with the brim. I sewed the outer crescent of the brim by machine and turned it inside out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8a265e1b-430a-4198-b919-797256b93a5e/20220905_163000.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then turned the structural part of the brim and sewed 18 gauge aluminum wire to the outer crescent of the brim piece. No wire was sewn to the interior crescent because that’s where the crown will be attached and the crown will have wire there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9ba6429c-4509-42f7-8b10-e5fe3f5ee278/20220905_163618.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then covered the outer crescent of the brim with a 1.5” bias cut stipe of cotton flannel and cut the interior crescent seam allowance so it could fold over the crown piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9b52a696-adf7-4a49-a3a3-c5ad3ff83cf3/20220905_164531.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then inserted the buckram brim into the silk sandwich prepared earlier. I pinned everything in place and basted the layers together by hand at the seam allowance point, where the brim will latter be attached to the crown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/96675094-67a8-4e13-9068-5697c5bc5c4d/20220906_122554.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - With the brim finished I moved onto the tip piece. I sewed a piece of wire through its center for added stability. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d54b279b-a098-4e5b-887d-4879a13ba991/20220906_122836.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then clipped the ends of the tip’s seam allowance and covered the bottom of the piece with a bias strip of cotton flannel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/498753e2-9d7f-4c35-8615-03baa4aeb08b/20220906_130623.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - With the structural aspects of the tip completed I moved onto the crown. It got four vertical lengths of wire sewn in it, one at the front, back, and each side. The top and bottom length of the brim piece also got wire sewn on it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3a8c6987-b3e9-41f9-abcf-9373e1231189/20220906_131301.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then curved the crown into shape and covered the end the would attach the brim piece with a bias strip of cotton flannel. The ends of the crown piece were also covered. The picture in the next section will prepares better visualize what I mean by “ends” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c95f4af3-98c5-4332-a713-2fe9c65421f6/20220906_144740.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - The tip and crown pieces were then attached. I folded buckram that extended past the seam allowance line over the crown piece. After being stitched together the joint was covered with a bias cut strip of cotton flannel. Make sure when you are attaching the pieces of your bonnet/hat together to place any vertical wire sewn on the inside of the bonnet/hat so they won’t show through the top layer. You can see on the left image that the vertical wire sewn earlier in now on the inside of the bonnet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a14a3f59-c5b2-40b3-975a-19d13a2a1e71/20220906_150523.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - I then attached the brim to the crown in a similar manner. The brim however was folded into the crown piece to form a more seamless outer bonnet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/caf43e6c-3085-4122-a898-5e0925eb909b/20220906_151358.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - After all the piece were attached together I could finish covering the bonnet. I covering the tip piece first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/65d29ec9-94e4-40fa-9fc3-530a88c54bc4/20220906_154451.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - The edges of the crown silk piece were folded and ironed under, then stretched over the raw/blunt edges of the exposed buckram crown piece. The silk was then sewn in place using prick stitches to try to make it as invisible as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/7ae8ab60-72b6-460c-8311-c921bdaf4b71/20220910_152623.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - The (almost) final step, which is always the most fun in millinery, was of course decorating. I went very simple on this bonnet. I attached some vintage velvet hydrangeas to either side of the crown piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1dd04307-1116-4507-8eb0-063b6caa2fee/20220910_152635.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - The actual final step was to attach the lining. The lining is sewn after decoration so that your wacky stitches you use to attach them don’t show on the inside. The lining was prepared by the tip piece being sewn to the crown by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/35ba5e31-e480-4b24-84b3-60fe2f367e62/20220910_155536.jpg Blog - 1875 “Azure” Bonnet - The lining was the whip/prick stitched in place. I used whip stitched on the bottom of the lining since it wouldn't be since, since the bonnet sits at the nape of the neck. I used prick stitches on the brim since it may be seen when the bonnet is being worn. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/30-makes-in-30-days-part-1 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/7-vintage-inspired-fandom-looks monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/edwardian-hat monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1941-purple-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3c4acc0a-b579-4d5e-94a4-a920f3c22e1d/1941+purple+2.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2078798d-4f83-415f-a8c2-01b095110ec4/il_1588xN.3901936839_rgg4.jpg+copy.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2426441e-73b0-40c5-ab2b-17e34abaa077/20220629_124102.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The first step was to cut out the pieces and serge them of which there were 23: two front bodice pieces two shoulder pieces two back pieces two front facing pieces two shoulder facing pieces two back facing pieces two sleeve pieces a skirt front piece two back skirt pieces two side back pieces four pocket pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/aa022f0a-7fd3-4740-a09c-b67e6e514077/20220629_124820.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The first thing I did was to interface the facing and sew them together at the front and shoulder seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d5db506c-098e-4f5d-acfa-2d36f27a86e6/20220629_130342.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - I then realized I forgot the shoulder facing piece and had to re-sew the shoulder seam. After that quick fix the bottom of the facing was serged. I like to do this once the facing is all sewn together because I think it makes for a cleaner finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/87ec13c0-3666-41cd-9121-e157efc8d624/20220629_130640.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The darts on each back bodice piece were then sewed and pressed towards the center back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/cd918b27-5109-4db7-a0c5-fd69f19b36c8/20220629_131948.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - I then sewed the darts in the front bodice pieces. After the darts were sewn I gathered the front bodice pieces to fit the bottom of the shoulder piece and attached the two front pieces together at the center front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/47929f6f-7077-4585-a60b-7b2eda14734a/20220629_132336.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The next step was to sew the shoulder seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/07ada0c4-c65b-43e2-97f2-e242b58e4c3d/20220629_133911.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - I facing was then attached right sides together to the bodice. The seam allowance was clipped and the facing tacked down at each seam point (center front and shoulder). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/33382011-e6e1-4166-8114-127a2386f428/20220629_134328.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - After the neckline was taken care of, the side seams could be sewn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4fc741d7-0fad-48b9-8e6e-de40607c5d32/20220629_135013.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - Now that the main bodice was completed I could move onto the sleeves, which were very simple. I sewed the underarm seam and marked the sleeve hem with tailor's chalk (pictured right). The sleeves were then hemmed by machine (pictured left). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5ac28858-1bf7-4594-aa9b-f47a216bb354/20220629_140406.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The sleeves were then attached to the main bodice, the sleeve caps were lightly pleated to fit into the armsyche. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/11a5058e-a20f-4122-931f-47761cb1e2e6/20220629_150651.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - Now that the bodice was done it was time to move onto the skirt. I seamed together the back panels and side back panels. The top of the center back seam was sewn with a basting thread, to be opened up later for zipper installation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/7d838154-75bf-47a3-8db3-0b77c0b982c0/20220629_151004.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - I then sewed a pocket piece to the top of side back pieces, not attached to the back pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d91a173d-0cc8-4357-b421-72756fe31e05/20220629_155713.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - I now moved onto the front skirt panel, which I pleated down using two box pleats to match the pattern cover illustration. The pleats were then topstitched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/45d30a83-bde0-4070-853a-4a6bb839b47d/20220629_161420.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The other two pocket pieces were then sewn to either side of the front panel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e9c9120b-32a3-43f3-aabf-6f9adafa883b/20220629_162843.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The pocket pieces were then laid on top of each other and sewn along with the rest of the side seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c453b4c9-eea0-48c8-b743-c033dd771d4d/20220629_172035.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The skirt was then attached to the bodice, matching side seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/04a6033c-17ed-49bf-897a-d33cd17f3a51/20220706_105701.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - A zipper was then inserted at the center back seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/7f33c212-8ebf-4a83-b941-edaf374b367d/20220629_172101.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The hem of the dress was then ironed up by 1/4” then 1/24” again and sewn by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/dadbae8b-fcb4-4b39-be01-3e3203367e22/20220706_105612.jpg Blog - 1941 "Violet" Dress - The last step was to cover a 3/4” strip of heavy weight interfacing with fabric and a 3/4" coverable belt buckle with fabric. I also created a little bias stripe of fabric that I then formed into a belt loop. These three things together created the matching belt for this dress. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1950s-balletcore-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/521465c3-cd1c-4fb9-a084-bc56912c9d52/1950s+ballet.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c392f327-306f-4eca-a785-4e86a1c9db27/FLzi2WPUYAswfSK.jpeg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/984096ce-678b-4b31-8fed-f7cd0490e8c4/20220226_121329.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress The first step was cutting out the pattern and serging all the edges of each piece. The pattern has 28 pieces: two back pieces two side back pieces two side front pieces one front piece four side cup pieces four front cup pieces two top cup pieces four strap pieces four pocket pieces two skirt back pieces one skirt front piece https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9639ed1c-fffa-44b6-8f1b-98a0be3cdd6f/20220226_124850.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - I then sewed the strap pieces together and turned them inside out. I made my straps 1” wide and 22” long (half the width of my fabric). I will cut them down once I pin them onto my completed dress and see what length them should be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a58f7d7e-6fde-4bf4-b403-5d3a0eefdd79/20220226_142919.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - After the straps were taken care of, I sewed all the bodice pieces together minus the cup pieces. The seams were them ironed open. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b8375385-84dd-46ce-986a-0c4cd0feb27e/20220226_144146.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - The side and front cup pieces were then sewn together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/92c64c5a-6e9e-4330-9166-95258a0ef4d0/20220226_150234.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - The top cup piece was then sewn onto the two previously sewn cup pieces to form the entirety of the cup piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ffaef8ef-c2f3-482d-b9a9-7bfd91465181/20220226_154023.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - Now I decided to make two cups for each side of the dress instead of the one per side the pattern called for. The reason being is that I planned on adding foam cups to this dress for support and I didn't want to do a full lining, so I just lined the cups. Here you see my sewing the cups wrong sides together to the main bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/13f7dfdb-3b62-49de-84b3-c3bfe211ca37/20220227_111710.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - Here is how the bodice looked from the inside once that step was completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/29edf7af-9f10-4666-b419-ff5d7ac75f35/20220227_112328.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - I then interred the foam cups and pinned the top of the cups closed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3ada8c3e-13de-4d5b-a170-e223136e1ba4/20220227_115657.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - I then folded under the neckline of the bodice and sewed it in place my machine. This finished off the neckline of the bodice and secured the foam cups within their fabric shell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/315831d0-0dae-47d6-8352-f33286062d6e/20220227_120836.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - Now that the bodice was complete for now. I moved on the skirt, which was a gathered rectangle twice the width of my waist and 31.5” long. Of course though, you have to have pockets which is what you see me inserting here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/27069970-a675-49c6-80e1-7051db0b8cc9/20220227_121939.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - After the pockets were attached to the main skirt, the rest of the side seam could be sewn. The pocket and the side seam were then pressed towards the front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9d1918d7-11bf-4eb5-bb55-f3ec64826c21/20220227_124553.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - The center back seam was then sewn and pressed open, leaving about 10” at the top free to insert the zipper later on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/dfb51031-8349-4beb-8f5c-e926ac6fa209/20220227_125659.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - The bottom of the skirt was then turned under by 1/2” then 1/2” again and hemmed by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b1483095-dee6-49be-961a-1babf7457ca4/20220227_131944.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - The skirt was then gathered and attached the the bodice with a 1/2” seam allowance. The top of the pockets were also caught up in the seam, this helps the weight of whatever you put in your pocket not drag the skirt down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/af5429e6-14f7-4922-afea-a497009d0ba8/20220227_134750.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - A zipper was then inserted at the center back of the dress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d913262c-3b36-4881-819e-5e5905932e4c/20220227_150402.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - The straps were then pinned on and adjusted until right. I think they ended up being 18” long. They were then tied into a bow at the shoulder and sewn in place my hand to the inside of the bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ca818b52-3694-4e3a-91b1-fb9630e4f275/20220227_153901.jpg Blog - 1950s "Balletcore" Dress - Due to the tension of the tight fitting bodice I decided to add some boning to the side and side back seams. I sewed some 1/2" boning casing by hand and inserted some 6 mm boning within it. The addition of the boning definitely helped the bodice lay smoother. The final step was adding a label! https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1953-dresses monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1940-moira-playsuit monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1650136259486-UNQBKNIILAZVMJH9NRS9/1948+red+shoes.jpeg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/96e23aec-5355-4120-b441-2ba60e9d9336/p3906_p_v8_ae.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ddee8d2b-330a-4c58-90ee-fc475705c334/20220220_140132.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The first step was the cut the pieces out of my fabric, a black cotton pique: 1 back piece 2 side back pieces 2 side front pieces 1 front piece 2 strap pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f2e61c2a-4842-42bb-bb55-b62090b2684f/20220220_142301.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - All these pieces were then sergered to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/24e176cf-c928-4a2a-9522-c96c6923741c/20220220_144026.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then pinned and sewed together the back and side back pieces with a 1/2” seam allowance. This was then ironed open. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/48223737-c17d-4d42-b37e-3904ad321cbb/20220220_150542.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The front and side front pieces were sewn in a similar manner. I made sure to clip the curved seam around the bust to make sure it lays smooth over the body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ef01bb1f-5430-4625-83de-a1b30b6a89d6/20220220_154131.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then pinned and sewed together the side front and side back piece on the right hand side with a 1/2” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4621f40e-5ae1-40e5-8b68-2ef607c110cc/20220220_155338.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The other seam seam was then sewn, leaving space for a zipper to be installed. After the seam was ironed open the zipper was pinned in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/42e62b6a-b461-448b-9564-46c7d4bd3dd4/20220220_155709.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then basted the zipper in place. I HIGHLY recommend taking the couple minutes to do this it makes the whole installation process SO much easier and less frustrating. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/be179666-fbf9-4c2c-9d6e-d5b912fa8e04/20220220_160314.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - Here is how the zipper looked once it was installed and the basting threads removed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2da4d45b-709f-4713-873d-ec431784d70e/20220220_160853.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then marked the 1/2”” neckline hem with tailor's chalk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/cec3e1f9-070a-46d5-9eff-4e0f0c9d1f32/20220220_163544.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then ironed the edge inward and pinned it in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a8d08a24-d72f-45e0-b412-165334d6cfaa/20220220_164007.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then topstitched (by machine) 1/4” away from the top of the playsuit to secure the hem in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/81663b34-660b-48e1-8610-cf57d3da2866/20220220_142805.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - Now, onto the straps. They were sewn right sides together with a 1/2” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f617f656-d908-46d5-a226-47c0ff397226/20220220_143417.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - I then pinked the edges, turned the straps right side out, and ironed them flat, placing the seam to the back of the strap. The ends of the straps were then sergered to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/72655476-f6ee-4a04-807c-6a5f591525b6/20220220_165503.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The straps were then sewed to places indicated by the pattern. I sewed them in place by machine, stitching over the neckline stitching to secure the straps in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/97306214-284f-4d71-86a1-9fbe7cc7b508/20220220_160828.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The final step was to hem the playsuit. I marked the 1” hem with tailor’s chalk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a87780a5-f452-4b9e-8eb0-56feae1d731f/20220220_164433.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The hem was then ironed inwards by 1/2”, then 1/2” again, and pinned in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/65b0c590-a190-451d-ad80-bddcd3fd382b/20220220_170033.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - The hem was finished in a similar manner to the neckline, with topstitching 1/4” away from the edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/691709bf-567b-49e4-a7b5-e64a19a90da7/20220220_165921.jpg Blog - 1940 “Moira” Playsuit - To finish this playsuit off, I affixed one of my labels to the top of the center back of the playsuit, using catch stitches. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1890s-pinstripe-bodice-and-skirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/regency-evening-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-27 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/regency-julia-bonnet monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/873682e9-b2f8-4a79-a5ca-679e7ee8edb3/Regency+Julia+Bonnet++.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/594311e6-a026-4851-8358-3050527b96d5/20211007_111055.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - The first step was to cut out the pieces. For the soft crown there was a piece cut from my fashion fabric, a pale pink silk satin (no longer available), as well as a one from tarlatan for stiffening, and muslin for lining. For the brim a piece of satin was cut to serve as lining and a piece of buckram for the base. The fabric for the top of the brim will made up later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/633a186f-9ec8-4d97-9b18-6b009fae7e87/20211007_112945.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then handed stitched some 18 gauge wire around the perimeter of the brim. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/36e25289-857e-4d22-9ded-9991e99e1d59/20211007_113410.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then covered the edges of the piece with 1" twill tape to smooth the edges. The tape was sewn carefully by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1a93c58b-5828-4398-9ce3-b2bc0f0643ac/20211007_115528.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then covered both sides of the brim piece with cotton batting to further smooth the piece. Since the twill tape already provided coverage around the edges, I brought the batting just to the point where the twill tape started to reduce bulk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/750d9438-3140-44c6-9165-b85c2b650dce/20211007_120649.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I cut out the brim’s top layer at this time. It was a piece of pinks satin that was pleated to match the curvature of the brim. I then sewed it to the brim lining piece, right sides together, with a 1/4” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5f3e57e6-d8cb-4fed-8ea4-4c80d8b42d15/20211007_121135.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Here is how the brim piece is looking from the right (top) side. I concentrated the pleats to the center of the brim because that is mainly what is going to be seen once the bonnet is constructed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1fa21586-e1fa-40bb-97e8-7047c48e0352/20211007_121535.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then placed the (buckram) brim inside the fabric croissant. I lined up the seam with the outside edge of the piece and used wonder clips to hold it taut. I then turned under the excess of the top fabric into the buckram piece, further securing it with wonder clips. The lining was left free at the point, because it will be secured later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ee38d9e0-9478-4834-9e05-5cb9a78218e3/20211007_123544.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - The top fabric of the brim was secured to the buckram piece by hand from the inside (buckram side) of the brim. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/96ecc085-f613-4da6-8634-d022b7a68c34/20211007_124206.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Now that the brim was done I turned my attention to the crown. Two lines of gathering stitches were sewn along the perimeter of the circle. These stitches secured all three layers, the pink satin, tarlatan interlining, and muslin lining together. They will now be treated as a single unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/acb2c9b9-1bd3-4409-88e2-c4b6dc472d84/20211007_124916.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I pulled the gathering stitch to a length predetermined by the pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6f0f89d9-06a8-43ec-8737-4e04ba976d34/20211007_140738.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then folded the crown into the brim piece and whipped stitched it down by hand. I worked from the the center front of the brim outwards. this secured the crown to the brim and hid the gathering stitches in the crown at the same time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1278d306-3e1d-4ef5-9761-65c9ae7262cc/20211007_140720.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Here is how the bonnet looked from the outside once that step was completed. Note the lining of the brim is still loose, that will be taken care of shortly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/deb7cfa6-c33b-49ff-9439-04c858620e17/20211007_141847.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - The final step to complete before the lining could be taken care of was to bind the part of the crown that was not covered by the brim. I just used a bias cut 3” wide strip of the fabric for that. I sewed it with a 1/2” seam allowance, turned in under and over, and finished it will whip stitches from the inside of the crown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4674ac94-32be-484c-a904-8f5874fe9a9a/20211007_142845.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Here is how the back of the bonnet looked once that step was completed. Before you bind the back of the bonnet this is your chance to try it on and make any last minute adjustments needed, by pulling the gathering threads tauter/looser to adjust the sizing of the bonnet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4be2ea98-6a4d-4d91-ae9d-da51aa0747ba/20211007_143239.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Now I can finally tack down the lining. I used wonder clips to position and secure the satin seam with the edge of the buckram. I then pulled the lining taut, turned it under and secured it with pins to cover the joint where the crown and the brim meet. I sewed it down by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f69e351a-359a-4b3a-9a61-c4a7861d60fc/20211007_150207.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - Now that the bonnet was constructed it was time to trim it! The problem is that I had no fabric left. I managed to scrap together a 6” wide strip that was look enough to around the brim with some excess to play with. The strip was sewn using a 1/4” seam allowance a turned right sides out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/af0c4e13-fa08-4a62-a83e-e4fdea1004fe/20211007_150915.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then placed my strip onto my bonnet and made four box pleats. I then tacked those pleats down, trying to hid the stitches as much as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/7f957327-20cf-4b77-8737-47bd6c18f37c/20211007_152641.jpg Blog - 1806 "Julia" Bonnet - I then folded up the ends of the pleat and tacked them down, here is how the bonnet looked once that was completed. I didn’t add ties to this bonnet because 1. I didn't have enough fabric and 2. because this bonnet stayed on just fine without it. Ties or no ties are your choice and both choices are historically appropriate. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1780s-italian-gown monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1930s-art-deco-evening-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1880s-asymmetrical-bodice monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/237bfc30-8d66-4293-9682-75fd313b1fec/20211002084855_IMG_2804.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c57f8cbf-20c3-42f3-aa48-688a80395bcc/tumblr_inline_nlqx50qtXe1tnz0ti_1280.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/81aea4d0-2d6f-4521-8b27-ae0cc0ab6e2d/20211001_135621.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The first step was to cut out all the pieces from cotton twill and all the pieces, save for the sleeve pieces, from muslin as well. There were 14 pieces in all: a right front piece a left front piece two side front pieces two side back pieces two back pieces two collar pieces two upper sleeve pieces two under sleeve pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f2723db7-a902-4969-a126-8a8ff61a9014/20211001_142143.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then flatlined all the pieces using my serger. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/92e01998-964d-46ab-bd94-0d85f91e8d29/20211001_152632.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The first step was to sew the center back seam. The seam was sewn just a little past the pleat extension. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6311aecb-e4db-43e5-a47c-6615c01a5a13/20211001_152858.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The pleat extension was the pleated into an inverted box pleat and ironed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/55ad0176-fb32-4c83-b0ee-2f489d776a41/20211001_154340.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The side back pieces were then sewn to the back pieces, using a 1/2” seam allowance. The pleat was also tacked in place by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5033cf22-0437-4cc6-97d9-2daa35e4279f/20211001_155559.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The side front pieces were then sewn to the side back pieces in a similar manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2ae39c21-2d5a-4f9c-b6c4-a0304c8653c8/20211001_155914.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - Since this bodice is asymmetrical the left front laps over the right front piece. Here is the two pictured so you can see the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f054ec2d-df1e-4080-99fb-78650664114f/20211001_162827.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The four darts seen above were sewn as well as the shoulder seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c1848efd-e71b-4f49-a76a-f166afa398ab/20211001_163606.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - Now the body of the bodice is constructed I turned to the collar. One piece was interfaced using collar weight interfacing. The straight edge of the other piece was turned up by 1/2” and ironed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a36c7702-e61b-44f9-a247-7c2d8b344837/20211001_164221.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed on a band of white velvet ribbon on the collar by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/63cdb7da-72de-4d7c-92a6-0b540806262c/20211001_165406.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed the collar onto the bodice matching up the center fronts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4e964e2a-7be7-4333-bed4-37894eb74c29/20211001_165617.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The non-interfaced collar piece was then sewn right sides together to the interfaced one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/87c156b1-89c1-43b9-b6f5-26ad36f1907e/20211001_170227.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - After the collar was turned right sides out I hand finished the collar, covering all raw edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a468e7f0-5a2b-4693-9dd5-f3019ef39a38/20211001_174137.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then turned under the edges of the bodice and secured them in place by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4e9fced2-7b01-4cf5-9286-3a0c62f06fd4/20211001_175821.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed on another band of white velvet trim the the lower edge of the bodice, 3/4” from the bottom of the bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c35c42d1-b32a-4425-b934-9fe4a739be53/20211001_181603.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed another band of white velvet trim to the left front piece, again 3/4” away from the edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b4681148-6ddc-4089-bbb1-eb1121d08edf/20211001_190037.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed seven hook and eyes to the center front of the bodice. They are sewn in a diagonal line due to the diagonal nature of the overlap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/233b3b6b-76ac-4780-ba3b-07eb6ff91524/20211001_190251.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed a piece of twill tape to the center back seam at the waist line. This is tied around the waist and helps keep the back of the bodice flush with the back of the body. I didn't end up boning this bodice because I was on a deadline and didn't have time. I will however go back and bone the bodice when I have the time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/03c6bbbe-0559-4b04-a997-90a6aeeeba75/20211001_193943.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then my attention to the sleeves. I sewed the under sleeves and upper sleeves together by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0605f6eb-a0d5-4b89-ae3d-8be8595691ca/20211001_195748.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - The sleeves were then hemmed by 1” by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3d115324-62f0-4d9f-82ea-94aad76d3177/20211001_201301.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed a band of white velvet trim to the bottom of the sleeves, 3/4” away from the edge, by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/20efc59b-df85-49db-9b66-5efe957df595/20211001_202847.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then sewed the final band of white velvet trim 1” away from the previous band. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/28a55aeb-bd42-470f-8cdb-1f1d86ea8be6/20211001_205655.jpg Blog - 1880s "Blue Jay”Asymmetrical Bodice - I then set the sleeves by machine, matching up the center of the under sleeve with the side seam. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/bavarian-dirndl monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/makingagibsongirlshirtwaist monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/regency-pineapple-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1628307520538-608K8VAO0UES0ILZTV71/pineapple+regency+2.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626655224655-EVF8DAPPUP5BMF1HQSHU/emma-movie-poster.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress - Make it stand out Inspiration for my dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626655920506-SWSXWIRCE116TAGB4964/20210628_113058.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress The whole “vibe” of this c. 1810 adapation was that of a whimical play and I wanted to play off that in mine “recreation”. For the lace portion of the skirt I chose this pineapple Quarker lace curtain. I first cut the top narrower lace off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626656155545-7M3HM6DJQQI7IEQW3V1X/20210628_113221.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then cut down the eyelet portion so I was left just with the bottom portion (about 18”) of lace. There was about 1/2” of border left on the top with I will use to attach the lace to the dotted swiss portion of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626656336019-KW46F5IS41D1VJDS98PY/20210715_151006.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress - I then patterned my bodice. The back and side where a modified version of Folkwear 215 "Empire" dress. The front was a modified version of the c. 1795 cross over robe from ” Janet Arnold’s “Patterns of Fashion 1". These pieces where cut from the ivory dotted swiss and linen lining. The sleeve I took straight from the Folkwear pattern without any modifications and did not have a linen lining piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626656758316-OIYFVV2KG6ZV008R7K0E/20210715_160550.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress - The skirt was a 30” wide 2 yd. long piece of the ivory dotted swiss. I then pinned the lace portion onto the bottom of the skirt, since the bottom was the selvage of the fabric I didn’t have to finish the seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626656957566-783C4HRL0FEO4L76PW03/20210715_160943.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress - I then ironned that seam towards the top of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657021668-KGKFMOZDORNRISYW810O/20210716_104429.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then sewed the center back seam, which was the only seam in the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657105380-KPC8WWXCK3YB6Q0PPT9R/20210716_110647.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then turned the seam allowance of the seam inwards and whipped it shut to finish. I left the lace portion of the seam raw because the curtain doesn’t really fray. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657328420-FOXYA4OCS40SCW8JE2SM/20210716_143758.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress Turning my attention to the bodice I sewed and felled the back seam and the shoulder seams, treating the linen lining and dotted swiss layers as one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657420363-LCYBWEXKWZ72OQJ860S7/20210716_143914.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then sewed and felled the side seam and then sewed the dart. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657646719-WOFYPPYWI3WMC0PLNRKQ/20210716_143925.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then folded the neckline under by 1/4” then 1/4” again and whipped it in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657676278-WDT5KED65D3LBJP138TS/20210716_145305.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then turned under the waist seam of right flap of the bodice. This will cross over the left side meaning that this portion of the bodice will not be attached to the skirt and thus needs to be finished separately. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657839372-6IGIBVMCF51ULGKAU95V/20210716_150942.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then pinned and sewed some antique lace to the neckline of the bodice to mimic the lace on the dress from “Emma” (2020). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626657907526-073IG0O0LQ1RQF6PRJT3/20210716_160955.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress Now onto the sleeves. I gathered the three points indicated by the pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658036899-I4V4HGJKKHZUWJDZRVVW/20210716_161551.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then cut a piece of twill tape the length of my bicep plus 1”, gathered the bottom of the sleeve to fit, then sewed it down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658166721-ZP28SMG7JVNOP6HK2RLZ/20210716_163513.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then gathered the middle gathers to the same length as the bottom gathers and tied it off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658258951-P286XT8EHDCFZDU5VSIP/20210716_164103.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress Now it was time to sew the underarm seam, I decided to sew this as a French seam. The first step was to pin and sew the sleeve WRONG sides together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658361652-SI6G6LKSTDQ2RDEPHTFC/20210716_164312.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then ironed that seam open and trimmed the seam allowance to about 1/8” then pinned the sleeve RIGHT sides together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658334987-H7PI44GRY1C1CRM28JY7/20210716_164739.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress The underarm seam was then sewn again. This process of French seam fully encases the seam allowance as is the prefered seam finishing method for sheer fabrics, like this dotted swiss. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658604817-M21YMTQQONPS9Z6JU1K7/20210716_165401.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then folded the sleeve inwards until the top of the twill tape met the middle gathering line and sewed it by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658669982-N46SAYI6V9HWJ40OYUR0/20210716_173705.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then sewed some of the antique lace I used for the neckline on the sleeves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658738556-UEBA4RCBWTKDJ6M7HF0K/20210716_180904.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I thenpinned the sleeves to the bodice and sewed them in place matching the underarm seam to the side seam of the bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658828554-W2BRUYRHYAD7W9QZR8UT/20210716_182353.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then sewed some twill tape to the seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626658909464-537MHQK7UUMAKH84J0LW/20210717_142522.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then folded the seam allowance inwards towards the bodice and sewed it in place by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626659076978-WFHHGEMIGMFXHFUEOV36/20210716_175017.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress Before I attached the skirt to the bodice I leveled the skirt. I ended up cutting off 2” at the center front angled to 4” and the center back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626659098927-01KS420MSVLNM7JAAGD9/20210717_143846.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then gathered the skirt in four parts, to lessen to chance of the gathering threads breaking when I pulled them taught. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626659134807-RMGUG7WFF7CHN0MUU2PU/20210717_150019.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress - I then pinned the skirt to the bodice. I pinned the skirt all the way to the edge of left flap of the bodice and until the point of the right flap of the bodice I finished earlier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626659160211-LYT3W8EY93KJA356Y6Q0/20210717_151731.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress After attaching the skirt to the bodiceI cut a slit in the front of the skirt about 5” long, this will allow me to get into and outof the dress easily. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626659189482-MFN5COIL9PWM7161VYQD/20210717_153217.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then finished the slit by hand using a rolled hem stitch and reinforced the end of the slit with buttonhole stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1626659218983-QMKRPA5CXLH1ZRE9I0W6/20210717_160051.jpg Blog - 1815 "Pineapple" Dress I then sewed a length of twill tape to the waist seam and sewed it dodwn by hand to finish that seam. The dress closes with two straight pins, one to attach the left flap to the stays/petticoat and the other to attach the right flap to the dress. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1902-trumpet-skirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1830s-aquila-bonnet monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629148378413-8AO9TQYYFS7Z6R3GQ3CT/20210814085425_IMG_2329.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629163137382-UP4N6AQF1CUQ6HPFULP9/il_1588xN.1049888660_korv.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629163182871-ZSW5UYYE3OAJ3WFHDJJM/20200412_105431.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet The first step was to cut out the three pattern pieces (crown, brim, and top) from buckram. 18 gauge aluminum wire was then sewn across the pink lines (see picture) and around the perimeter of each piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629163319266-DNP3BNC5YOHBRBZXMFD7/20200412_162330.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The edges of each piece were then covered with white bias tape. After the piece were wired then were attached by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629163502277-WNAGOCE9VKRQXFVVAPMA/20200421_165757.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Now it was time to constuct the lining for which I used the “cotillion” silk taffeta from Silk Baron. Here you see me seweing togther the top and crown pieces together. I then sewed the crown piece to the brim piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629163862226-DLP6TTL0CR1NUO37UQM9/20200421_182919.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then mulled the bonnet with cotton batting. The reason for this is to smooth out the bonnet so the fabric layer lies flat. I then attached the lining layer to the bonnet using whip stitches. I would suggest doing this step last though. I now know more about millenery now and doing the lining last leads to a cleaner look and finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629164030656-F52AW2NAY4UZA1IYV04W/20200421_184235.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then covered the top, brim, and crown with sandalwood silk taffeta from Silk Baron. You can see the mulling mentioned previously better in this picture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629164812491-KU1LL6ORTVLKMN9LTUFP/20210812_144156.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Before starting on trimming the bonnet I decided the inside brim needed something an little extra. I had this ivory lace in my stash and pleated it ino 1/2” knife pleats. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629164846729-1S2JE3TFXW6S0MXQBOOI/20210812_144134.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I attached the first row to the joint between the brim and crown. This length went from ear to ear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629165079441-OABLKP7648M7ZZIUV43O/20210812_145358.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then attached another row that went from one edge of the bonnet to the other. I used a head mannequin to help me visualize where the trim should be placed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629165395028-O5I13Q1U89LRUN7OLDYH/20210812_151559.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then attached a third and final row for maximum floofiness. All the rows were attached by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629164063158-AY6OLVFRYXROA7JJ408V/20210812_105439.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Here is how the bonnet looked once it was all covered and ready for trimming! I was also now coming back to this bonnet a year after is was started. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629165431965-3ZDMQ3DKON9FEE98DH53/20210812_110934.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The first step was to attach the ribbon ties. I attached a 2 yd. long ribbon to the top of the crown. It was then attached to the joint of the crown and brim with a pleat to help the ribbon hang down straight instead of at an angle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629165457892-4SO2NCB7N26WMJSUZD6O/20210812_114507.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then pinned a 14” brown ostrich feather to either side of the bonnet, attaching them at the bottom of the joint of the brim and crown and at the top of the crown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629165500733-WDBY400F8QLW4EX7H418/20210812_120626.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - After those where attached I attached two light brown feathers on either side. This feathers where part of a larger branch that I cut down so I could use the feathes individually like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629166287758-SOJ6301LYVATHFM8UZMW/20210812_134444.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then attached one rust colored paper flower to either side of the bonnet. All the trimmings are being attached by hand so I can re-trim the bonnet in the future if necessary or desired. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629166318831-YNICA59E54WDYQKLL732/20210812_140315.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then attched another type of brown feather to the center back of the crown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629166356073-UD6I92J33QUSX7NHHJ76/20210812_133228.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - After all the feathers and flowers were attached I decided to add some self-fabric trim as well. I cut five 8” squares into circles using scalloped pinking shears. I only ended by using three of the five circles I cut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629166383845-79TZF7ATH5QZPM9J6WZZ/20210812_133305.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then folded wach circle into halfs, than quarters, then sixths. I ran a gathering thread at the bottom and opened the circle up to create a flower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629166409392-UFR2KBNHHNE8WDIJG07M/20210812_133404.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Here is how the flowers looked once completed. This is a really simple trim to make and gives a really nice effect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629166444252-P4WZ8XY0TBVY78F861NM/20210812_141633.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Three flowers where then sewn to the base of the crown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167103993-YVRP8BE2L10OAQXOXMGH/20210812_125454.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - I then decided it still wasn’t crazy enough and the bonnet needed bows. I made 5 loop bows using instructions and diagrams from ” "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking" . I cut two lengthes of ribbon, one four inches shorter than the other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167131667-6JUL6C1AMWB3ANA21YEL/20210812_125740.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The ends of the shorter length were lapped and gathered into a simple bow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167169806-4SLUTRZLCJLS3J7GFOOU/20210812_130104.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The ends of the longer piece were lapped and gathered. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167196251-4CRH2TRMW3KJMU8ARZLF/20210812_130248.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The longer piece was folded into thirds and gathered togther to create a center loop, the fifth loop that makes it a “5 loop bow”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167228206-O3NDB4VODITAGIFF7ECC/20210812_130641.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - Once completed the two bows should be the same length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167278758-VAGYTJ7T2GKWXT7DV9IX/20210812_130901.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The three loop bow was then layered on top of the two loop bow and sewn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1629167313243-2WL2R7X84497RD3RAJVL/20210812_142518.jpg Blog - 1830s “Aquila” Bonnet - The bows where sewn to the bottom of the crown/brim joint to help hide the ends of the all the other trim and to complement the ribbon ties. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1886-plaid-overskirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623274934172-794N0HASZ0OUF7Y2HPKJ/this.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271385851-QCYEAPJQT4AHO7024O5I/20210305_150223.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt - The first step was to cut out the pieces, from my fabric this Yale Blue Plaid Cotton, of which there were seven: one front piece two side pieces one back piece one waistband piece two pocket pieces *not included in pattern https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271460536-TM67G7HM9XIBSKUJH8WJ/20210305_154011.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt No I can’t possibly make something without pockets and this overskirt was no exception. The pattern is from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion 1. This pockets get sewn in with the waistband to the weight of whatever is in the pocket will not weigh the skirt done. I sewed the pocket to one side of the front right side seam of the front panel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271505056-6POH8SJS14LAO3FZG554/20210305_154129.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt I then did the same for the right front side seam on the side panel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271592236-1RVLGOAKA6DVU1YX2V0M/20210305_155740.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt The pieces were then pinned together and sewed around the perimeter of the pocket then done the rest of the front side seam as normal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271617813-XD7VF4RXJPONLSXUQMFL/20210305_160455.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt The left front side seam was them sewed as a normal seam. Both front side seams were them pressed open and pinked to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271687133-PTE4DKV4V9B59A70C8AD/20210305_161046.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt The front piece (front panel and side front) was them given a 1” hem by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271739509-4DZ7QCHD5LP0Z911HKB5/20210305_163228.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt - The side back seams were them pleated via pattern instructions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271833493-C5BL9TMCPS2YQTGLGCDV/20210305_165041.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt To make the pleats look nicer I tacked down the pleats all the way until I reached the side front seams. The tacking stiches were sewn underneath each pleat to the pleat on top would cover up the stitches of the previous pleat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271768438-Q6YISAW9JF5ROVJRVDMK/20210305_163237.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt I then cut out two strips of fabric to cover and thus finish the side back seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271873721-8KIGFL41NLCRIPS3M9EY/20210305_173402.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt I then bound the pleated side pieces by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618274115481-SQY050EW6MIWM6ZUJ1OP/20210305_175623_Original.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt - Now that the front piece was done, I turned my attention to the back piece, aka this giant rombus. That little cut out corner is the top of the center back seam. I hemed that edge by hand as well as the reat of the rombus indicated by the pattern. The portion of the rombus that is not hemed is what will be pleated to the waistband and form the folds of the bustle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618271965785-P6MQA1JF03UW5536E8AS/20210306_130737_Original.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt This is how I pleated the back piece to the waistband. There was a mark on the waistband pattern that indicated “back piece fits it here”. I then folded it half then half again until I had eight sections. I did the same with the back piece. I then matched those pins and pleated the back piece towards the center back seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618272088714-7Q43AR6U3Z1YYX8J6MKK/20210306_130810.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt Here is how the pleats looked once the waistband was sewn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618272119502-C6NBB9RL89TJTZKOAS81/20210306_133525.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt I then pinned the rest of the waistband to the front piece and sewed it by machine. I then foled under the edge of the wasitband not attached to the overskirt under by 1/2”. I the folded the waistband it half and hand sewed it down to finish the waist edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618272162594-XBWS2PUGRD2RDDNT6QV2/20210306_144035.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt I then sewed on a skirt hook and bar as a closure to the waistband. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618272197622-J3XTA7QBP4VWKSVQNXV5/20210306_144425.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt The final step was to sew on two lengths of twill tape to the pleated side pieces. These twill tapes tie under the back panel adn over the bustle to make sure the overskirt hangs properly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618272231309-UIVAZKLJE4VWXMYOL1X4/20210306_144503.jpg Blog - 1886 "Yale" Plaid Overskirt Just to give you a look of the pocket in action, scissors for scale https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/italian-renassiance-gamurra monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1885-wave-underskirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623278953290-IH7OPAZ6470814EQULV9/this.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623279433407-TQH5P7SPWBB61NGMJT85/20210608_101845.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - The pattern ( out of the book) consists of: a back piece (which is a 44'“ x 45” rectangle shaped at the hem) two side gores and a front piece I added the follwing pieces: a 3” wide wasitband a placket piece two pocket pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280010558-5YUMH1U9OQKP394BF8QG/20210608_110210.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - After I sergered all my pieces I sewed the two darts in the front pieces and the dart in each side gore piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280040872-U9G2CQ0QV8HB0J6P7N7A/20210608_111535.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then pinned, sewed, and iorned open the seam of the front piece and side gore pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280073528-4HDQTGCWMPPG7NFB9AYT/20210608_112141.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - Now it’s placket time! I pinned the placket pieces (3”x7” rectangles) on either side of the center back, which was cut on the fold. I sewed them using a 1/2” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280100380-PEO4IMOZF45IGG3QSCMX/20210608_113827.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - The left placket was made into an extension and sewed down by hand. The right placket was ironed under and sewed down by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280126949-KQ2BDM6FR60KYRVCE4FJ/20210608_114953.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - Now that the placket was down I could attach the back pieces to the side gores. Before I did that though I attached the pockets to wither side of the right “side” seam. The diagoanl edge was attached to the seam right sides together starting 1.5” away from the waist edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280624756-ZBNYAQWDYJOXUHS9R52S/20210608_115327.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then pinned the pocket and the rest of the seam together and sewed. The top of the particular pocket is meant to be sewn into the wastband therefore I ironed the pocket (and seam) towards the front of the skirt. I basted the top of the pocket in place with the waist edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280833817-F1ECGFBI5H7MUCC5SWYK/20210608_120918.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then pinned, sewed, and ironed open the other “side” seam. In prepartion for attaching the waistband I interfaced it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623280894707-75J7WOOPUYTQ7FT5EYS8/20210608_133104.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I pinned and sewed the waistband to the skirt starting and stopping at the “side” seams of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281160980-EVRV2DCT9LSOYES61ARV/20210608_133531_Original.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I pleated the back piece to the waistband using the “half” method. I folded the wasitband and the skirt in half and inserted a pin, then did that until I had 7 pins/8 equal sections.. I then matched the pins and pleated the fabric towards the “side” seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281339830-43XNKHGRWB9S7YI2B6EU/20210608_134305.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then sewed that little 5” piece of pleated waistband by machine using 1/2” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281437423-LPS5O5T2TXPN2VM42EKJ/20210608_140443.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then iorned the wasit seam upwards and rest of the waistband downwards to cover and thus finish the seam. I finsihed the edge by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281830858-NXRWNJQ5DPM2E7U2TFLP/20210608_142342.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then sewed two, size 2 hook and bars to the back of the skirt for closures. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281876987-2FFX92TDM5OJ8K01ZXZK/20210608_150945.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then marked the hem, ironed it, pinned it in palce, tried the skirt on with proper undergarments to check the hem’s length, and sewed the hem by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281906900-NI7DTCNN9E65NZCE6AYK/20210608_163807.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then pinned some 7/8" velvet ribbon 3/4” away from the hem and sewed it in place by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281941470-GCVYTBRK3PUMU0T1U8S2/20210608_170317.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then pinned and sewed another band of velvet ribbon 6.5” away from the hem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281966409-5ARWENMER45K9L7GI74R/20210608_172920.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then placed a wave template I designed and traced around it with chalk. I centered the template at the center front of the skirt then moved the template towards the back. I ended up having ten perfectly placed waves! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1624256040529-1K0AVL6JOZ19FSF4KQHI/20210617_094054-1.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623281992192-4LWI5NZD94IHIN9GRI36/20210609_111405.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - I then sewed baby blue soutache braid by machine along the chalk lines I’d previously marked. My repeating pattern used 9 2/3 yards of trim. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623282025797-FI9YJHRXKK84CD67QR9V/that.jpg Blog - 1885 “Wave” Underskirt - Make it stand out here is a look at the back of the skirt https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/queen-victoria-order-of-the-garter monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1624256179902-KMYP2BKP6HJ9WSF3AP9G/20210617_094039.jpg Blog - Queen's Victoria's "Order of the Garter" Regalia - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1952-roman-color-blocked-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623102364438-GV5B67MUOCCGRS6W67NU/1952+roman.jpeg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623102866980-3JEWMXHPLU9OM373TI1A/Unknown.jpeg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - Make it stand out Simplicty #4649 from 1952 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623105292751-E5L12ZQ6RUVM7X8AVKPY/20210518_141938.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress I cut then sergered the following pieces from my main red fabric: the back bodice piece the front bodice piece the back skirt piece two side back skirt pieces two side front skirt pieces two side front yokes the front skirt piece https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623105480404-ILU2KGD0ISVCR547JVVW/20210518_143158.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I cut then sergered the following pieces from the constrasting grey fabric: back facing (top left) back yoke (bottom left) two front facings (top right) two front yokes (middle right) two pocket facings (bottom right) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623105718527-E1QXOIF13XL6MJIHS26Z/20210518_144115.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then interacfed the back facing and the front facings until a mark indicated on the pattern. The interfacing on the front facings does not extend all the way to the end of the piece because it would make the piece (which will later become the center front tie bow) too stiff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623105835332-L7IDR0M9ZB3CKO5A4737/20210518_150639.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - The first step in assembly was to sew the four darts of the front bodice piece and the two darts of the back bodice piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623105974588-T58JGVGDP2KD4959Z0XE/20210518_151851.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned and sewed the front yokes to the front bodice piece. The front yokes were sewn stopiing at about 1/4” away on either side of the center front point. This gap leaves space for the bow (with the front yokes create) to exisit in the future. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106233757-TLOO2U41U5S4C0K6D0F1/20210518_152746.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned and sewed the back yoke to the back bodice piece. I then pinned and sewed the shoulder seams as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106290073-IF94FLJ95SO7QUU61V3P/20210518_153428.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned and sewed the back facings to the front facings pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106484679-L2Y96R2NR5NFKG9S7P9Z/20210518_154122.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned and sewed the back and front facings to back and front yokes. The front facings and yokes were also attached at the bottom of the piece, creating a tube. Once the facings were attached I turned the front facing “ties” outward. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106627466-5ASN2UF7D4Q4SVGT37R8/20210518_161406.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then tacked the facings down at the shoulder seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106763585-DD1KJQ9ZBXXUA7N7ENT6/20210518_163506.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned, sewed, and ironed open the side seams. I left a gap at the left side seam to insert the zipper later on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106839487-TKT3A5KGGXBK34SLFQQ5/20210518_165324.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then hemed the sleeves by 5/8” by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106889364-6ZH1ZN0AJ3GR8T17KXZQ/20210518_170026.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - Now that the bodice was done I moved onto the skirt. I pinned and sewed the pocket facings to the side front skirt pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623106977560-D9Z1WMFE9FMDZGIPMU8E/20210518_170505.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then clipped that seam turned it inside out and ironed the pocket flap downards towards the hem of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623107303762-MSKIVJ1WJFNOIOJ4Z7BZ/20210518_171119.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then attached the side front yoke to the pocket facings. I then ironed the pocket facings upwards matching notches on the pocket facings with notches on the side front yokes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623107401585-KP6FGESIF0CZIL4LPF5E/20210518_172920.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned, sewed, and ironed open the front skirt piece to the side front skirt pieces, catching the pockets pieces in the seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623107544660-3TT7A6ZPLS00UN44BALF/20210518_172929.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned, sewed, and ironed open the seam of the back skirt piece and side back pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623107765613-9GCWFOLHPAYY4RN4GE6V/20210518_173345.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned, sewed, and ironed open the side seams of the skirt. I left open the top of the left side seam to install the zipper later on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623107852645-76VTB4VHOHXFBUOCRYFT/20210518_175023.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then pinned and sewed the bodice to the skirt, matching notches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623107907500-PCSWTTIUCRBYRQKIXPN0/20210518_181038.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then installed the zipper. I basted together the side seam and placed the teeth of the zipper right on top of the seam and sewed the zipper from the inside using a zipper foot. I then seam ripped my basting stitches and had myself a working zipper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623108089466-KW67IXJNVGW4FSQI4OM2/20210518_181215.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then cut a 3” wide 38” long piece of my constrasing fabric to make a belt. I ironed the piece in half and sewed them right sides together into a tube, then turned it right side out. I then cut a piece of interfacing 3/4” wide and inserted in into the fabric tube. I cut and handsewed a little fabric loop and ran the belt through it. Finally, I ran the belt through a buckle and sewed it together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623108324926-G4I4UKXH2MAZSOXCO54J/20210518_181709.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - I then marked the hem on 1.5” and ironed the hem towards that line. I pinned it in place then sewed it by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1623108443076-QAPR7LK25WH7GY8QJO8A/20210518_183833.jpg Blog - 1952 “Roman” Color Blocked Dress - The final step was to tie the front yokes pieces into a bow! https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1940s-shorts monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1622324890627-U6Y7UL7KYLX8BJQYDD5V/20210529_103954.jpg Blog - 1940s "Yuki" Shorts - Make it stand out patch pocket pattern https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1940s-bishop-sleeve-blouse monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050131646-5W63G8WZXQUNG5XIPSVG/20210513120003_IMG_0683.jpg+bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621048265127-1186XPBIR5KN9RV76KRW/bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I started with my basic sleeve draft then went from there. I drew two vertical lines, one from the shoulder point and another from the back notch. Where the former line met the bottom of the sleeve was marked D. I then measured 3” away from that point then connected that point with the top of the sleeve (highlighted red portion). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621048688968-E3K46QHL5SAXHLVXN2ML/bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then slashed the left line (with the point D) and spread it until there was a 3” gap (highlighted red portion). I then taped some pattern paper in to fill this gap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621048836079-09R4JQ80ZKE58XUL9H5Z/IMG_1554.jpg+bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse I then repeated the same process with the left side of the sleeve. I marked a line from the front notch to the bottom of the sleeve (marked E) and extended that 3” away (highlighted red portion). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621048947785-A1SS81U7G1AW92EF25AV/IMG_1556.jpg+bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then slashed and spread that line till there was a 3” gap (highlighted red portion) and taped in some more pattern paper. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621049048068-L15IWTXE9AISF04PZIN5/IMG_1558.jpg+bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse I then marked 1.5” away from point E and curved the bottom of the sleeve around this point. I then taped on some pattern paper to the bottom of the sleeve and extended it by 3/4”. (highlighted red portion) I personally drafted by sleeve with seam allowance already included but if you did not remember to add it at this point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621049268293-HFBZMC8N0NYKF5OK8JW9/20210511_133653.jpg+bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse I then drafted the cuffs. Mine where 11” long, 9” of actually length, 1” overlap on both ends, and 1/2” seam allowance. To figure out how long you need to make your cuffs, take a measuring tape around your hand in the nock of your thumb. I also curved the edges of my cuffs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621049664831-KT4DIY0RENHEO6EVZ7AI/20210511_133735.jpg+bishop Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse The cuff itself is 4” wide which folds into a cuff that is 2” wide. Make sure to add seam allowance at this point like I had to do. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050273049-7U19AIDCLD88DL6ZSHFR/20210511_145009.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse The first thing to do was to cut out my pieces and interface (*) them: front piece back piece back facing * two sleeve pieces two cuff pieces * back neck facing* front neck facing * https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050427161-EK28R0H8NS9MQQLI2KZ4/20210511_151644.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - The first step, after serging all the pieces, was to sew together the shoulder seams with a 1/2” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050700065-J3US36MZ4N5S8ZCXBBOH/20210511_152257.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - After sewing together the front and back neck facings at the shoulder seam, I pinned then onto the bodice right sides together. I then pinned the back facing on to centered over the center back seam. I then sewed the facing uisng a 1/2” seam allowance and sewed the center back opening narrowing until I met the end of that white chalk line. The opening was then cut and the facing ironed inwards. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050791180-OOIEFC68QVH4DH3D7U2G/20210511_153503.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then sewed a fabric loop to one side of the top of the center back opening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050948216-3R2ED3EYIV3IF4AHK1EY/20210511_154555.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse I then sewed a pearl button to the other side of the center back opening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621050997122-A2OML0F9X2ZUOXB4NEQ5/20210511_160824.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse I then tacked down the facing at the two shoulder seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051048014-KBK50Q3SXBMJPOXSF5G7/20210511_163649.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then marked and sewed the two front and the two back darts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051102362-5ELT83SJKUNFA4DILR9I/20210511_163657.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then sewed the side seams with a 1/2” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051196168-G2FBOUXJU5TOMW1F4CC9/20210511_163739.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then turned under the bottom of the blouse by 1/2” then 1/2” again and sewed the hem by machine. Since I never plan to wear this blouse anything but tucked in, the visible machine stitiching doesn’t bother me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051289088-SSRB77BIRHJN2BER6M9J/20210511_164734.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse I then turned by attention to the sleeves. I gathered the bottom of the sleeves by machine using two rows of gathering threads. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051344714-I41DWF4COWU4Z48YVXXH/20210511_165150.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then pinned and sewed the sleeves to the cuff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051434486-SZO7YP8YB8WPZ2T8O9Z1/20210511_165314.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then sewed the ends of the cuff, right sides togther tunred the cuff inside out and pressed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051542092-XM5UEHODXS8BVL0USYQR/20210511_165927.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then finished the interior of the cuff by hand using whop stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051600079-YNC8AN8A6CSFBXB5UZF9/20210511_170240.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then sewed the undersea, seam stopping 3” away from the cuff and ironed the seam open. (I didn’t need to tack the opening down because it stayed put because of how it was attached to the cuff). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051741026-WMBMP34OX45OEJ7EJLO8/20210511_175608.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then pinned and sewed the sleeves to the blouse matching underseam and shoulder seams and gathering the rest to fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1621051844061-FHOKNUCG2FM832FN7ER2/20210511_181350.jpg Blog - 1940s "Shrike" Bishop Sleeve Blouse - I then made a handsewn button hole on one end and attached a pearl button to the other on both cuffs. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1790s-amalia-jacket monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647218948-354D5NQYQ8446S84VSXN/20210123_104728_040.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646207418-KJTBYIGGI9L9TEYBHLCI/20210117_135145.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - I cut out the following pieces from my linen lining fabric: two shoulder straps two side pieces two back pieces two front pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647378163-4QK1YR13J3CBMU85T3K5/20210117_152427.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - I then cut out all the rest of the pieces from my striped silk taffeta being careful to match the stripe pattern. You’ll notice that that lining pieces end at the waist while the fashion pieces have tails. two shoulder straps two under sleeve pieces two outer sleeve pieces two backs pieces two side back pieces two side pieces two side front pieces two upper front pieces two lower front pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646257579-WEEG9ADBAKWNJVZZVEW9/20210117_160959.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - Here are all the pieces cut out you’ll notice the side pieces are were the tails end. The 1760s-1770s opinion have the tails extending all the way to the center front of the jacket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646283886-YMYSXZ6OFASMCVKG5T2B/20210117_171852.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The first step was to seam the lining pieces together. (The shoulder seam will be tackled later on.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646312413-17WGMYVS56IW9QNDLPSQ/20210117_172703.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The bottom edge of the lining piece was then folded under by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646336470-54XSFSP0RRGJVFQRQYR1/20210117_172848.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The center back seam of the fashion fabric was sewn including the little tail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646362856-ACPK9N3MV3H18ZPOSBKX/20210120_095828.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - That was then ironed open and pinned, wrong sides to wrong sides, to the center back seam of the lining. It was then stitched in place by hand with the stitches being buried in the seam. The little excess formed a perfect box pleat at the waist. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646394675-UQN38RRJ4BFYGI3JYOXS/20210120_100352.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - I then pinned together the tails of the side back pieces with the back pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646421996-VFDPTB83PE1MQFOHLCTP/20210120_103706.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - Those were the sewn, ironed open and picked to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646447702-33PAZC1TSI149BFEQGQY/20210120_105957.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The edges of the side back pieces nearest to the back were then ironed back by 1/2” then laped over the back piece by 1/2” and prick stitched all the way to the waist. The excess tail formed a double box pleat which was partially secured by the prick stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647423032-2EHVGRXVNRLN0EA030TN/20210120_110624.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - I then pinned the tails of the side pieces to the side back pieces, sewed, and picked. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646511697-9AKC3D1HVDBUS1EFV5AT/20210120_111443.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - Here is a closer look of how the pleats look when you lap a piece over another piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646536206-679OFLLU1V6DDJ8VCFNT/20210120_112538.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The side pieces were secured in a similar manner as the side back pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647484072-FYK0XGBH4H6F60WPOYSE/20210120_115840.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The entire tail piece was then given a narrow 1/2” rolled hem by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646579652-U5I0N30P1KZMB4VEW9MO/20210120_134446.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The bottom edge of the lining that was folded up eariler now served to finish the waist edge of the jacket from the side seam to the side seam. The bottom edges of the front pieces will be tackled shortly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646631607-ERWQES0CQWBPPBP2YJX3/20210120_134701.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The bottom edge and edge closest to the back of side front pieces were ironed under by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646656884-0P323U4VVAM6AK736YQ8/20210120_135922.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The pieces were then laped over the side pieces by 1/2” and prick stitched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646683549-GP0VXJTJLFIKSQQJSNLW/20210120_141226.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket Now the front piece of this late 1780s-early 1790s comes in two parts an upper and a lower piece. I cut by upper piece on the bias and my lower piece on the straight o ultize the stripe pattern for effect. Here you see the bottom edge of the upper piece being turned under by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646707804-Q7UDJ34VNLR9UX88SWEW/20210120_142358.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket That was then laped over the lower front piece by 1/2” and prick stitched. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646732869-CO18I9Z6HGDI5WVE9EO7/20210120_142926.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket All the edges of the entire front piece (save the shoulder seam) was then ironed under by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646758062-73UVP3ZOHWFK17J7JBA5/20210120_143416.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The front pieces were then laped over the side pieces and prick stitched. (only at the seam connecting the side front with the front the other edges will be dealt with momentairly.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646781455-7WAB4Z43EJNFOCMVI64J/20210120_163827.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The neckline and armsyche edges of the shoulder straps were ironed under by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646803291-VIQVJFKLD4IGELK62B2Q/20210120_164328.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - The shoulder straps were the sewn to the back lining with the right sides together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646823065-8DRY7GB49RLQNGJEFWRX/20210120_164907.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - I then tried the jacket on to check for fit and sewed the straps to the front lining. I also then turned under the edges of the front lining by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646849444-NO5C2JHFXA2XPQKBK62J/20210120_170055.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket I then smoothed the front piece over the front lining, pinning it in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646876608-I8HK9IGYFW9O7OHIDJ94/20210120_172528.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket I then turned the front piece under and stitched the lining over it by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646904583-URRNHUIB5LAHGNPMDSB3/20210122_153053.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket Now that the jacket body was done I could move onto the sleeves. I first sewed the outer and under sleeve pieces together by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646928962-6PLI72BXQK2RYMI8VM7B/20210122_155554.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket I then hemed by the sleeves by hand (another narrow 1/2” rolled hem). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646953695-KXBTHE8QXQEFFETHUNDL/20210122_160743.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - I then went above setting my sleeves, the 18th century way I highly recommend American’s Duchess’s "Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking” for how to do so. The bottom of the sleeve is set in using the “normal” method from about where the strap stops and ends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614646977236-RBTB8KTALB3XLTKEIC50/20210122_161915.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The jacket is then placed on a dress form/body and the sleevehead streched over the strap and gathered to fit. The jacket is then removed and tried on to check said fit. The sleevehead is then basted into place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647001975-CMJWD86BU4VAY73YQRF9/20210122_163133.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket The fashion shoulder straps come into play now with all sides ironed under by 1/2”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647027196-MQZ5EYUUFM1S7ZSWF8QQ/20210122_171108.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - They are then pinned over the gathered sleevehead and sleeve lining and prick stitched in place. This method also for easier fitting and a greater range of movement. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647054905-UPYN1RIG1LXCY2OFZX4L/20210122_173630.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket - Here is how the whole sleeve operation looks from the inside. Notice that I pinked the edge of the bottom sleeve to finish it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614647076997-20GRA8T6KS31EBBYX037/20210122_173637.jpg Blog - 1790s “Amalia” Jacket Finally the jacket is done and here is a picture of the inside back to get a good idea of how everything looks when completed. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1840s-evening-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/queens-gambit-endgame-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1618433503822-435VB3J49GVBME22YXAM/20210414_103528.jpg Blog - 1968 "Queen's Gambit" Dress collar pattern https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/regency-open-robe monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1616007079849-UNI164KLKSW8DN5TP1LT/20210315_102234.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648644800-GC5KZLNNN391O4LSDRRE/1.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - Here are all the pieces cut out of my two-tone shantung from the Aiea Fabric Mart: two sleeves two back pieces two side back pieces two front pieces two front skirt pieces two back skirt pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648711997-8PK19CJBH8QYZSR4FFOJ/2.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - Now before I could start assembly I had to piece my back panels becasue their entire length would not fit on one width of fabric. I french-seamed them together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648742749-7VMKJ0GWY6446TPOUX9F/3.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - I then french seamed the front skirt pieces with the back panel. The steps of a 1/2” french seam are as follows: sew pieces wrong side together with a 1/4” allowance iron seam open trim seam allowance down to 1/8” flip over pieces so that they are now right sides together align the seam until the pieces crease along it and iron it down then sew the seam with a 1/4” allowance (which encases the raw edges in a neat and finished way) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648777030-1PPQN9NSPHZRHZT2U91J/4.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - I then marked the 5/8” heam around the entire perimter of the skirt using friction pens. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648810469-8B1QMJEY7KVSYJ5HGE6B/5.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe I then sewed the hem by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648855893-FXYZ9ILF0I2T0JR9BAL4/6.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe Now that the skirt was completed I could focus on the bodice. I sewed together the back pieces and the side back pieces using french seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614648880674-ESDNV3MEYOVHUSR2LCVG/7.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe I then sewed the darts into either side of the front pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1615600819341-TLQDG3B6EVH2JGIP84F9/8.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe The next seam to be sewn was the side seam which I did again using a French seam method. I also sewed the shoudler seam even though it’s not pictured. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649021797-M5OOLGY8XJNUWP2WTDHO/9.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - I then turned under and hand finished the neckline of the bodice as well as the bottom of the bodice that would not be attached to the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649060580-G7SKW45Z299Y6XSHCMVO/9b.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe I then turned under the center front edges of the bodice by 1/2” then 1/2’ again securing them by hand. (In case you are wondering this open robe closes with straight pins. You pin one side to your dress, then lap the other side over and pin it down. It’s actaully very secure!) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1615601083236-X3QG4UKSFDZAVR57P4OS/20210102_155354.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe The skirt was then gathered to fit the bodice, matching notches. It was sewn by machine and the seam pinked to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649092385-810UTTEGDKBA6775SN2K/10.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe With the bodice and skirt done it was time to turn to the sleeves. The darts were sewn, then the seam allowance turned in on itself and secured by hand to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649119436-ZRMG7KHSSPBHSWLQ76H7/11.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - The underarm seam was then sewn by machine as a French seam. I also turned the bottom edge of the sleeve under by 5/8” and secured by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649153448-28PBE5CXWF623T1YMALH/12.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - I then set the sleeves into the bodice by machine, matching notches, concentrating the gathers at the back shoulder as done in the period. The sleeve seam was pinked to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649184525-K40XBX2HHYIRWGGVCLYN/20210101_123610.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe - I then cut a little bum pad per instructions from the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking. The purpose of this pad, which is filled with scraps, is to help kick out the gathers at the back of skirt and aid in achieving the correct silhouette. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1614649246550-V798KMSY1ZE403CF9AY2/20210102_163051.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe The bum pad was then tacked the center back area of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1616007446111-Y4UZ9XJ1124DSD3ZQRZE/20210315_102517_021_saved.jpg Blog - 1806 "Sunset" Open Robe just so you can see the robe in full twirl action :) https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1770s-pet-en-lair monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1903-s-bend-corset monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611017705438-AM43BATQ81NJQT6T2H7D/20210118_112516.jpg Blog - 1903 "Orchid" S-Bend Corset https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1592770450494-IK9604WSZ034G63JWQ28/Screenshot_20200621-100730_Photos.jpg Blog - 1903 "Orchid" S-Bend Corset hip gore before seams where trimmed https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1592770502269-TYY6PPXZBTI0M1N6C5J2/20200425_142006.jpg Blog - 1903 "Orchid" S-Bend Corset close up of waist tape and boning channel placement https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1592770756548-RTSPSSQ28VNOAMHHXTZD/20200426_140829.jpg Blog - 1903 "Orchid" S-Bend Corset close up of bias tape being sewn on https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1603004455876-20DTR1TDVVK7ENNKLFB8/20201017_205754.jpg Blog - 1903 "Orchid" S-Bend Corset here is how the tailor pads were sewn in https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1603004825829-6POQ3KQ64JLG5BRCOUXR/20201017_205911-1.jpg Blog - 1903 "Orchid" S-Bend Corset here is how the finished corset looks https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/biddle-bible-class-1950s-skirt-and-sweater monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1770s-pouf monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893514585-06ECNUVETBUS61L6MKON/20210122_104930.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893127112-CCCXGVEWO5S07MZNUGKC/20210115_135135.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf This are the pattern pieces, a base piece and an overlay piece. I used the pattern and instructions from the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty for my pouf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893151156-3WJSZHABSLGDOK3QEOH5/20210115_135316.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - The pouf base in made up of a layer of buckram for sturcture and a layer of white linen to cover it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893189266-M2HUGOESVP2ELIKZ6QAA/20210115_135619.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - The first step was to cover the buckram with the linen which I did by hand using whip stitiches and white linen thread. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893211751-B7V7F1M1Q68A7V05FBV5/20210115_144257.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - Now my overlay layer in silk satin which I had to piece because I was limited to scraps. The overlay is bigger than the base because it will be tacked done to the base to form “poufs” and thus texture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893234708-T9P6R2I6XECJNQG9CJ28/20210115_145214.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf I first lined up the edges of both the silk overlay and the base and sewed it by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893286805-WZZ763E05LGX2WTQKXV2/20210115_152014.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf I then randomly pinned the excess silk overlay until it poufed in a way that I was happy with. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893335040-RRQS2WT0ZDZ7WJZB4PAF/20210115_161913.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - Now another pattern pieces was the tube of the silk satin which would be attached to the perimeter of the pouf, again for texture and fabulously. The tube was gathered every six inches to form poufs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893364007-KKIIU91L8A7UFIKTJXRG/20210115_170324.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf The gathered tube was then postioned along the perimeter of the pouf and overlayed at the center back to form tails. This was sewn by hand https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893387647-YM4W2PO38LBEGWVJ30CV/20210115_171103.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - The tails at center back were folded over the underside of the pouf to form and bow and tacked down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893407896-B4E3XKSG5GXCJWZTD991/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - Now it was time for the fun part, decorations! The center back and center front got a bow of shantung to make the gown that would be worn with the pouf. I also added blue fabric flowers to the center of the bows and the two poufs paralleling the center front. The center three poufs also got a velvet flower as well as. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893432682-P3AURYG5KOGWVRZVHE6H/20210115_183246.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf - On top of the pouf I also added a branch of paper flowers to the top of the pouf for height. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611893490152-KJTNW9YRPOWA80VC20C7/20210122_105014.jpg Blog - 1770s “Cloud” Pouf top view of my pouf https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1880s-corset monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1880s-lobster-tail-bustle monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1740s-1770s-petticoat monthly 0.5 2024-11-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611361530257-03UNZOR2R4TI6RIO15DD/20210122_104626.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609536230326-A5LKNEMN79SBDRXVQ6BU/corset-chemise-pocket-hoops.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609536019681-6GHL024Z150LXXP72ZSK/20201217_165212.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - The first step was cutting out my rectangles. I used instructions from The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking for how to measure my pieces. I cut two (one back and one front) 56” (the full width of my fabric) by 46” pieces. This 46” measurement was gotten by measureing over the sides of the pocket hoops and adding some length for a hem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609536600764-7ULAMKQ8VO04QDDGZEAG/20201217_173148.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat The fabric you saw above was the “lining” fabric, a pink linen from the Aiea Fabric Mart. On top of it I laid my fashion fabric a pink silk stripe organza. It was cut to the same measurements and treated as one piece moving forward. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609536775788-EAD2EO8F7DJCI8YDWJH2/20201219_103019.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I then basted the layers together around all edges. I marked the sides of the pieces 10” done from the top with a pin. This will be finished separately from the side seam. This will form the pocket slit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537129223-5IWAW3Z2NJ4H5U81EHAO/20201219_115504.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I then sewed the two side seam of the petticoat, starting at the pin placed earlier, by hand using back stitches. (You could easily do this by machine I was just being extra.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537157499-BZE89TAQL7BDVL8FMA95/20201220_141823.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I then felled those seams to finish them. Felling seams involves ironing them one side (in my case the back side), trimming away all by the top layer of fabric, turning the top layer inward on itself, and sewing it done using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537211894-NEWA6LZQBVEPUYSP1EHT/20201220_141833.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I then finished the pocket slits by turning them under them under again and sewing them down using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537242246-VXC630E91DMIZQHKJNHK/20201220_154743.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I turn places a little reenforement patch at the natural weak point were the slit meets the side seam. I sewed that down with some more whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537267747-ZBPY5L40SL9LWU2BWE31/20201220_174143.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I then turned my hem by 1/2” then 2” and sewed it down by even more whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537034267-A3CXDDF76S5LS9BRPIYH/20201219_105707.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat Now in the 18th century petticoats were hemmed the pleated to a waistband. Therefore after my hem was sewn I found the center front and cener back points of my petticoat and placed pins marking the center front and center back lengthes. They were both 41”. I then drew a diagonal line connecting those points with the side seamss of the petticoat. I then basted across those lines. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537337150-G19EX0ONT4V29MUQC0PB/20201220_175143.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - After the top of the petticoat was leveled it was time to pleat. The front piece got a box pleat with knife pleats radiating towards the side. While the back piece got knife pleats radiating towards an inverted box pleat at center back. The stripes in my fabric were really helpful in getting the pleats even. You want to pleat you petticoat pieces to a little over half your waist measurement. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537357249-4PR2FO92ARDQRWG5CHXB/20201220_175208.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat - I then sewed a piece of twill tape 10” longer than by waist measurement to the right sides of petticoat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1609537383684-5NHCS2I411THRNHCX3RX/20201220_192600.jpg Blog - 1770s "Bonbon" Petticoat I then turned that twill tape towards the wrong sides of my petticoat and whip stitched it down thus finishing that top edge and my petticoat. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/turn-of-the-century-combinations monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1611017620970-FYPSHB337X0NOEOICSA0/20210118_113749.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605830362079-LU0XT638Y6TCNCZITAEG/E02-1.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605830464312-DZBT2FJAUMDADGZRCRZU/20201025_172851.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - The first step was the cut out the 19 pieces that make up the combinations. The two fronts and accompanying front facings, the back piece, two waistbands, two drawers, six pieces that make up the two flounces (one for each leg), and the four straight ruffle pieces. The pieces were then serged to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605830857913-SQJU8M5D1U4F7UGRJZYD/Screen+Shot+2020-11-19+at+2.06.54+PM.png Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - The first step in assembly was to attach the front and back pieces at the side seam and the front facings to either side of center front, right sides to right sides. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605830911795-HTX3K3HSWJQNFRE7WFVV/20201027_103132.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - The front facings were then ironed towards the inside of the garament and finished by hand using whip stiches and linen thread. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605830999702-3G0M33OK8BOJKLMNZ3K8/20201027_103818.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then finished the drawers off with machine sewn bias tape forgoing the facings included with the pattern. I then seamed together the bottom of each drawer forming a hole for the leg to go through. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605830670387-YWI7C0NVIWFWRK5XZQLR/20201025_180928.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then set aside the drawer pieces and focused on the ruffles. There were four straight ruffle pieces, which I sewed together to form two tubes of two pieces each. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831078485-SJDNTKEBU1154ZJ7QBOU/20201027_110753.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then sewed some beauitful antique lace from ToLaceWithLove on Etsy onto the hem of each ruffle tube, and since it was already sergerd the seam was finished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831101552-CVCQFCKBNG74PWKGRN4X/20201027_160959.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then sewed the front, middle, and side of each flounce together twice, to make one flounce for each leg. I then sewed some insertion lace, again from ToLaceWithLove, about 2 inches away from the bottom edge of the flounce. (insertion lace tutorial) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831150798-8PLZVDDXZPPHSR1MBTIK/20201027_162205.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then gathered the two ruffles to the two flounces by hand the seamed them together by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831204461-EHK3VTLQKP6RF7XRNK3D/20201027_163319.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then turned to the top part of the combinations. I added straps of the same lace I used on the hem of the ruffles to marks indicated my the pattern. I did leave a little excess I case they ever needed adjustment. I then added some lace to the neckline by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831305088-5AENP64XXF485DY8C4N9/20201028_145909.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - Turning my attention back to the drawers I gathered the flounce to the drawer proper, thus finishing the bottom half of the combinations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831340398-LFTJ5F45KE5EACL013GD/20201028_152017.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - Notcing the drawers were a little long (read directions folks) I added two 1” tucks on the straight ruffle. I measured 2” from the bottom then 1” from there , matched the two lines together and ironed it. I then sewed 1/2” away from the fold, forming a 1/2” tuck. I then repeated the process. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831395594-264XVKXX772Y0PI0E9G7/20201029_142732.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - Now it was time for the waistband. I ironed by 1/2” on one wasitband, which became the inside waistband. The top half of the combinations was then sandwhiched in between the two waistbands and gathered to fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831517145-BHPYQZ0N6EV8IKL7LX2S/20201029_144342.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then gathered the drawers to the bottom edge of the outer waistband, overlaying drawers at the center back for modesty sake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831544153-SMT6E4KEOCW7IM6YSNTX/20201029_150140.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then folded over the inner waistband and pinned in down over the seam thus finishing it. I sewed the waistband down in a similar manner to the front facings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605831580546-ZU9DHAYV0E37OWBEU3EL/20201029_160322.jpg Blog - 1900s "Duchess" Combinations - I then sewed the buttonholes by hand using white buttonhole twist and added four faux pearl buttons. Remember this garment is meant to be worn under a corset thus keep that in mind while chossing buttons. Don’t chose buttons with a shank or those that are very thick overwise they will leave a bruise. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/my-fair-lady-costume monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/star-trek-tos-uniform monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1861-lotus-bodice monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892635666-QL51V9ANPTLP6OE7GFTY/1861+lotus+bodice+2.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1608792284430-NX77H23V765ESX4R6SZ6/Screen+Shot+2020-12-02+at+7.10.50+PM.png Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892102887-LWRRPK70F1FMDMFS0MMX/20201110_134101.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - The fabric I chose is a cotton/linen blend in the color “cadet blue” from Renassiance Fabrics, which is sadly no longer available. I used a white cotton broadcloth for “lining”. I cut out the following pieces: a back piece two front sleeve pieces two back sleeve pieces two side pieces two front pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892172397-EHXFE0VWZPZZGP3JLE9B/20201110_142311.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - Here you see the changes I made for the sleeves. I used the sleeve head and shape from the Truly Victorian pattern, then adapted the cuff into a padoga shape using the piece from Patterns of Fashion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892200749-L3RUWP4NWR7BEY7MCXII/20201110_165425.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then basted all the blue fashion pieces with their corresponding white cotton “lining’ fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892239266-6CC9I25RV2PMHP3VHOUA/20201110_165632.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then cut out bias stripes of my cotton fabric and made piping using 3mm cord. I then attached it to the front piece at the side seam using a zipper foot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892306116-18LEUTVW8NJ59CNN0BHR/20201111_143946.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then added some on both the top and bottom of the front seam and well as the side and shoulder of the back piece. Therefore when all my seams would be sewn they would all by piped. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892349544-OASZUJHT045SFG9FPVPR/20201111_144000.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then sewed the side pieces to the back pieces and ironed the seam allowance towards the side seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892419077-EEDTSS7Y1PHVSK1X11WE/20201111_144008.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - Here is how it looked from the inside. I pinked the edges to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892447206-PNYV904J2GC2PQM68LM1/20201111_144735.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then sewed the side and shoulder seam and finished them in a similar manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892539695-IO9YNKCSZC76FT23EIMU/20201111_153857.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then sewed the four darts into the front pieces, two on each side, and ironed them towards the center front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892570612-CWET6DCXYRNKUFLJ5GQF/20201111_160818.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then cut a stripe of blue linen bias tape and sewed it to the collar. I then turned it inward and finished it by hand using whip stitches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892675453-G5EYTHMRNMZZYJ6KEQUX/20201111_163011.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then finished the center front edges in a similar manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892732374-0RTEG0ZNRDWUQN3OE346/20201111_165456.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then made some more bias tape and pinned and sewed it to each seam as well as the darts to form boning channels. I then sewed this on by hand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892781841-ESZAHWZ18XK0FZFRVGNY/20201112_161936.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then turned the hem of my bodice up by 1/2” then 1/2” again and finished by hand using whip stiitches. Here is how it looks when finished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892864535-MMOPCPD81N30HGZUIK5B/20201112_163537.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then instered my boning for which I used spiral steel for the side backs seams and 7mm whalebone for every other seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892899062-NPFT1TVNWYCOF4KOMIJ2/20201112_164712.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - Turning my attention to the sleeves and hemed then using the same bias technique I used on my neckline and my center fronts edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606892992397-QEMM0KXIR3R4SURNR84T/20201112_173658.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then added my waist tape and attached it to the center back and side back bones. The purpose of the waist tape is to take the stress off your buttons and bring in the back of your bodice to your back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606893099564-FPHQIB0GLX66HU1M4AOZ/20201114_140857.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then traced out my lotus flower designs and marked out my placement for my velvet bands 1/2” up from the sleeve hem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606893133911-AGCXVPWX5LBP6LLPTFFW/20201114_151428.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then pinned and sewed on my soutache trim using tiny running stitches then my velvet bands by hand as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606893178350-80V4GN39X1D53G81DCPR/20201115_130655.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice here is my template for my lotus flowers each sqaure is 1/8” by 1/8” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606893230356-HXVGQG0AOPKVGB2DZU3O/20201114_163624.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then gathered my sleeves and attached them to the bodice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606893260869-3IN4UII43JKXMSUZ2Y93/20201115_111423.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then marked out my 10 buttonholes using tailor's chalk. They are 3/4” wide buttonholes, 1/2” away from the center front edge, and 1” away from each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1606893288916-SUDPFYZA7G22FDIHC9PK/20201115_124033.jpg Blog - 1861 “Lotus” Day Bodice - I then sewed by buttonholes by machine and my buttons by hand. My buttons are a faux pearl flat top shank kind. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1940s-vest monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607397482069-QG6K5GIB3LHI2SFHIUTV/1940s+Vest+4.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607393909929-2B3SQ5PHESDBFLZ76TGB/simplicity-2943jy11.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607394337403-DXXDMR1WLY4V6T52V6MQ/20201123_150753.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - For my vest I used some leftover lightweight olive green wool from Burley and Trowbridge. There were eleven pieces in total: 2 fronts a back a lower back facing an upper back facing two front facings four collar pieces https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607394456388-MCLN0LF0G9783YNLKJAJ/20201123_151758.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - The first thing I did was assembly the facing pieces using a 5/8” seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607394543456-R5NSWG6X6R5LXLPC2KFR/20201123_154154.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - I then sewed the darts, two upper back ones, two lower back ones, and two front ones. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607394624906-HOA8SNPEWYWTOFMX9BLK/20201124_102032.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - I then sewed the shoulder seam and the side seam again using a 5/8” seam allowance. After the seams were sewn I finished them using the “Hong Kong” finish, that is using bias tape. I did this extra fancy seam finish because the vest would be unlined and possibly seam when open so I wanted it to look nice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607394806974-FLWCMVTUJTR0FGG8DLA9/20201124_114848.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - I then cut two more collar pieces (minus the seam allowance) out of horsehair tailor’s canvas to interface them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607395027409-1G4EL6BLWVYFE8FYRFOL/20201124_114827.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - To attach the horsehair canvas I used a special tailoring technique known as padstitiching. (helpful tutoial here) This stitch curves the collar/lapels towards the body and helps them retain there shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607395198157-G7XIPOMMD490L6RRMMX8/20201124_135622.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - This was the first time I had used this technique and was SO happy with the result, it was like magic! After the two collar pieces were padstitched I sewed on the other two collar pieces on top on them. The padstitched collar pieces would face the vest and thus the tiny stitches would not be seen from the outside. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607395353295-WKTDBWDN3533XEJDECJ7/20201124_135627.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest Just another angle on the collar, because of the stitching the shape retains itself https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607395446994-Z93PWPZYLK0JPZX5BFAE/20201124_141350.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - I then attached the collar and the facing to the vest matching notches. (I sandwiched the collar in between the facing and the vest.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607395563271-FJZR36OHKVTP6BE7DXZ2/20201124_150215.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - Here is how the vest looks after attaching the facing. To finish the facing I hand tacked it to the vest. If you look closely you see my pins holding that in place as I sew. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1607395723796-J989BPLIGTZUCCMOOCBT/20201203_111532.jpg Blog - 1940s "Olive" Vest - The final step was the add the buttons (Dill Buttons #1270). I sewed three buttons on the left side of the vest on marks indicated by the pattern and three on the right side parallel to the buttonholes. I sewed the buttonholes by hand using waxed 80/3 “Dark Olive” Linen Thread and this tutorial. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/lady-marian-costume monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1880s-combinations monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605554721857-JZLR2UBBAUGQ9VVDMHS0/20201116_082742.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605554796174-W2N1ER6VNK8O9LYADV9J/TV105-Combinations.png Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605757124623-72BDRW0DQNNEAHBFKIPQ/20201031_163216.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - The first step was to cut out my pieces of which there where seven. A back, two fronts, two front facings, and two back facings. This pattern is interesing because the drawer and fronts are all cut as one big piece. I then serged all seams that would not be finished by another method. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605757439493-URD9KLGHBALL5HHXBPWK/20201031_173355.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - Before assembly could begin I sewed two vertical darts to each front piece for shaping and volume control.. These darts extended from the apex of the bust to below the waist. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605757465314-3PKRRSFSOH3XK6PPVZKU/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - I then sewed the front and back facings on as pictured. They extend all the way until the center front and center back of the garment until the mark indcating where the piece will be joined together to form a bifurcated (two-legged) garment. After attaching the facings right sides to right sides I turned them over to the wrong side of the garment and sewed them down by hand using linen thread . https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605757988823-VMFY1TZ6RYAAUGV387LF/20201101_155120.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - I then added two rather massive darts in the back piece, to help with shaping and make the garment more flattering. You will notice then absense in the next couple pictures. That is becuase I did those steps and then tried the garment on and hated it. Therfore I ripped out the back panel and re-did those steps. So just pre-tend the darts are there from the beginning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605757853596-41587PNCZO5W7WFZ9HPA/20201101_133638.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - After the darts were sewn I attached the back piece to the front pieces at the side seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605757925228-QQ0ZJSW93A8L5Q3PQR8N/20201101_135559.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - I then gathered the back side of the “front” piece to fit. My gathering wasn’t mathmatical just what looked nice, amking sure it was realtively even on both sides. The center back seam was overlapped for modesty reasons. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605758125950-CJXP0MB3K3VSXFOMD83N/20201101_140112.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - Then the two legs were joined togther thus creating a "pair of combinations”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605758176513-HCQL3UQ4BG3KDTPQ30VF/20201101_162843.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - To finish off the hem of the combinations I used some lace trim. cotton eyelet lace trim. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605758147219-9DFGMXRC4UXD579AOVSQ/20201101_161505.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - I then turned by attention towards the neckline of the combinations which was along with the armsyches finsihed off with some bias tape by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1605758281478-NTVVANJU864RODI09JX5/20201108_151848.jpg Blog - 1880s "Anne" Combinations - The final step was attached the five buttons. The top button was positioned at the neckline the bottom one at the waist and the rest evenly space out in bewtween. When chossing your buttons remember this garament goes underneath your corset and thus these buttons will be pressed into your skin all day, so don’t chose buttons with a shank or they will bruise. Instead chose very slim buttons. I sewed the buttonholes by hand using a double strand of the same linen thread I used for sewing the facings down. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/harvey-girl-uniform-1890s-apron monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1955-plaid-skirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602724583147-M3SCM6TAAXOW5AI077RG/1955+plaid+skirt+2.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602724529716-DUR82Y5L1CMEP6SKPSBB/Vintage-1955-8-Gore-Full-Skirt-Pattern-3552.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602724740000-5WU1QEFRZME2C471XHFK/20201004_132259.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - The first step was to cut out the pattern pieces, making sure to match the plaid up. To achieve the volume of a circle skirt this pattern utilizes gores, there are two fronts, side fronts, side backs, backs as well as a waistband piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602724886583-YPA15EJOJMMIZDUZ3XUP/20201010_145351.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - All the pieces were then sergered to finish. I then seamed them together, using a 5/8” seam allowance, starting with the center back seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602724989609-4GMSNEKIEVAZ1UTKXNK1/20201010_145744.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - I then ironed the seam open, look at the lovely matched plaid! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602725041325-W41TFTNYH5HMDUX9BYBS/20201010_155849.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - I then attached the side backs to the backs in a similar manner. The whole process was then repeated for the fronts and side fronts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602725171390-ZHE29YNTTWY0UJLEHSJ8/20201010_161051.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - Before I sewed the side seams together I had to attach the all important pocket. (The pocket pattern is from Gertie’s Ulimate Dress Book ) The pocket was sewn right sides to right sides and ironed to the inside of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602725532542-RTVPUBGUCW7NPEWI6CP6/20201010_162010.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - Then the side seam was then pinned and sewn using a 5/8” seam allowance and ironed towards the front of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602725702259-Z0ID4XZZTB4KM5RJ0UMD/20201010_162021.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - You always want to iron your pockets towards the front because that is how you’ll put your stuff/hands in them therefore if you iron them that way you won’t be upsetting the lines of your skirt when you reach into your pockets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602725750638-O1ZKNLE4G2OMKH977Q53/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - The other (left) side seam was then sewn and ironed open. I then pinned my zipper on top of the seam and sewed it using a zipper foot from the right side of the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602725935956-SG0MZAUS4UZG3SCUNUZG/20201010_163305.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - Here is how the zipper looks when completed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602726030074-N4UNXHERTB5XYPIZILC8/20201010_164032.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - With the main skirt now completed I turned by attention towards the waistband, which was interfaced and one end ironed towards the inside, when will finish the waistseam when attached to the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602726383427-DWRDZO3GQF0Y1XZ5NUV1/20201010_165431.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - The waistband was then attached to the skirt, ironed and turned over as pictured. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602726356416-DNDCT2YOO3M1UHQTVIUF/20201010_171742.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - I then finished the waistband by hand using some beeswax and black linen thread . https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602726569404-Q3LS7KGJ0SK9NBRH43V9/20201010_165537.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - With the wasitband finished I turned my attention towards the 5/8” hem, which was marked out using tailor’s chalk, ironed, pinned, then sewn by machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1602726715938-Y7DY37LJ0EKLK7M1336A/20201010_173627.jpg Blog - 1955 “Jay” Plaid Skirt - The final step was closures for which I used a combination of size 2 hooks and thread bars. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1830s-corset-and-petticoat monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1601417209834-TU9J60B4XEW9WLL3DJNG/1830s+unmentionables+5.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587234978216-5NWJ5D3D1WDJRLIVUB4V/20200316_122245.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set chemise before facing yoke was sewn on https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1601417438026-RKETU70AY1F98YLJIIFX/1830s+unmentionables+.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1601417894464-USTGTN0CZZJP3Z7V6SZA/1830s+unmentionables+2.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587235463518-V6HSNCFF1NLQ1T3N7D2S/20200328_141941.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set pictures of the yoke (opening in center back) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1601417937236-1T63WJWJPLQI95RSLV4N/1830s+unmentionables+3.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587236183236-TN98BFJ6JCUDRL1Q5I26/20200328_173628.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set close up of the tucks and lace https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1601417967579-H2V9CX61TATDO0JXKUO3/1830s+unmentionables+4.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587236424341-DJNOIZEEW3NOX5OI76SS/20200415_160347.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set sleeve supported before being filled https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1601418000852-9TZYCYWM6KTPDEH26P9T/1830s+unmentionables+6.jpg Blog - 1830s "Caramel" Undie Set https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1860s-gored-corset monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/rococo-shepherdess-outfit monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599447499960-JLR98GBTMWYFD7KKD0EX/1760s+shepherdress+5.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599447896870-OC9P2122U05DRZ8K9CGA/Declaration-Of-Love.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599447939217-0KYLLX6A74IF71YNMXX2/20200731_122421.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - The first step of the stay making process was to cut out the pieces (the front, side fronts, sides, side backs, backs, and straps) from the strength layer for which I choose a cotton coutil. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599449052796-1VTBRIQKAL38OF2KXFD5/20200731_124140.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - The next step was the cut the pieces out of the fashion layer, the silk. I did not cut this layer exactly flush with the pattern piece though, to give me some leway in assembly and make things generally easier for myself. The excess will be trimmed away latter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599449125951-5S1WUR3KVLPQ5XV6WL61/20200731_143521.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - Now I also cut an interlining of cotton muslin. Its purpose to provide “padding” between the silk and the coutil. I will be slipping the bones in between this layer and the coutil so the bones have less of a risk of poking through the silk. After I cut this layer I also tranfered the boning channels to the coutil layer using a pencil. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599449358895-JHJRTX16AUEE8J7KH0FI/20200802_112504.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - I then sewed all the boning channels from the wrong side of the stays (I know I like to live dangerously) using a matching thread color, and trimmed away any excess fabric. After the boning channels were sewn the pieces were all sewn together, save for the straps which will be sewn on after the boning in put in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599449487207-U8VWSFFODT46MZRHVPPJ/20200802_121554.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - Now it was time to insert the bones for which I used 7mm synthetic whalebone, which is a platic boning which mimics the properties of boning of the period which was cheifly whalebone. (which know of course is illegal to procure). I cut it to size used tin snips and filed the ends of it using an nail file. The boning that ran hortizontally across the bust was inserterd into the front then whip-stiched to the side front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599450015076-RC5GEVOS6YA78WU9UAI4/20200802_125054.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - After sewing on the straps, I cut out the binding from my scraps of silk taffeta. The binding was sewn on by machine and then turned into the interior of the stays and finished by hand using whip-stiches. I first bound the back of the stays. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599450297829-CFA3GH1T1Q7WG8WWMOSY/20200802_132431.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - Followed by the bottom of the stays. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599450392453-R85SAZP56MT2JNF63EC7/20200802_143734.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - And fianlly the top of the stays were bound as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599450445949-2JE6EQB43992IZLY3XVG/20200803_103239.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - I then punched out the holes for the eyelets using a tool and rubber mallet. There were eyelets in the back as well as a pair on each strap to attach them to the front of the stays. I sewed the eyelets by hand using dense whip stitches and 3 strands of a matching cotton embroidery floss. The final step of the stays was to cut out another length of bias tape, this time for the lacing to close the stays. I folded that strip in on itself and sewed it by machine to finish. I used the method instead of a tradtional lacing cord becaucse I knew the cord would show and I wanted it to match the stays. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599450902405-WFKGSPF27B1IAZG35G3E/20200803_161208.jpg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - Here I am cutting out my skirt which is arounf 40” inches wide by the full length of the fabric across. I then cut it into two equal pieces, for 18-century petticoats close at the sides. I then sewed the pieces together using french seams leaving a 9 inch gap at the top to get into the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599451112388-A22BUK0AZYBJRLMD12HP/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - The next step was to pleat the petticoat for which I used SnappyDragon’s wonderful tutorial. After the skirt was pleated I sewed both the front and the back onto a piece of twill tape which will tie the petticoat closed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599451368603-Z5RAUD83W0OZ8M4U3UJY/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1770s "Shepherdess" Ensemble - The final step for the petticoat was to hem it. I put on my bum roll and leveled the hem using the process explained in Burnley and Trowbridge Co.’s Petticoat Bum Hack video. I sewed by hem by hand using whip stiches and a matching thread. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1949-mt-fugi-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1600028012129-5X8T406TWLYS7244V33R/1949+mt.+fugi+2.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599795099561-9A6DN10HKELWRJTNCQ8Y/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599795192517-ZOTFYYRT5QGHI29H5TXD/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - After I pre-washed my fabric I moved onto the patterning process. I knew from how the blouse was constructed that there was just enough room in the hips I would be able to just follow the side seam of the blouse all the way to my desired hem length (31 inches), in order to make it a dress. So that is what did. I then cut out the front, back, collar, front facing, back facing, and pockets out of the fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599795429354-Q8DNY68C7SC79QG9ZMJ1/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - The next step was to interface the pieces that needed it, the collar, the front/back facing, with a lightweight iron-on interfacing. Then all the pieces were ran through my serger to finish the edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599962648708-7TJ3NO70T7JAWJ8THKZL/20200907_135102.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - Now onto the assembly process. I attached the back facing right sides to right sides to the back panel. I then slashed the center back to a notch indicated my the pattern. I also attached a little loop of fabric on the right side of the center back seam while I was sewing it. The loop is meant to loop over the button closure. You can’t see that here but you will be able to see that later on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599962701734-V5A4X1NGY3YXPIT4DJ9D/20200907_135908.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - I then sewed the tucks onto the front and back panels, which is the only shaping the entire dress has. The tucks were ironed towards the center back and towards the center back respectively. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599962781888-MZGGV7CKVSNHYEMNHZCR/20200907_140504.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - Then I sewed the front and back panels together at the shoulder seam. Which was then ironed open. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963114169-OL5XRBGJWDUHLBS9Z9TU/20200907_141810.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - I then turned my attention to the collar, which I sewed right sides together, cliped, and turned right side out and ironed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963289493-LQDY9K9CQ1AWP6EYAOXX/20200907_142152.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - Now it was time to attach the collar to the dress. The collar was attached to the dress matching notches indicated by the pattern and the front facing sewn on top to finish the raw edge. (see photo) Also, I attached the back facing to the front facing at the shoulder seam. After being sewn on the facing was turned inwards and ironed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963315226-IKSERSW002JVI11KUPVZ/20200907_143752.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - I then understiched the facing which helps the facing stay on the inside of the dress and not peek out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963348364-GS0FS4U3OARWSVYON01W/20200908_104253.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - I then sewed a faux pearl button closure to the top of the center back. Here you can see the fabric loop I sewed on earlier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963376767-22K3PC9DKVIJ2RKDK4DC/20200908_114338.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - I then tried on the dress and determined where I should place the ever important pockets. After their placement was determined they were sewn and the seam allowance ironed towards the pocket. I then sewed the side seam which was ironed towards the front of the dress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963409488-1OVG5H6641GB3XAIX5N5/20200908_142116.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - After trying the dress on I decided that I needed a matching belt. Which I made using a 2 inch strip of fabric the length of my waist measurement plus a yard on either side of that length, for the tie. I then interfaced the belt using a mediumweight purse interfacing and wrapped the farbic around it finished it by hand. The interfacing ended where my waist measurement did so the rest of the belt was folded in on itself and finished by hand. The cool thing about this belt, since it is completely separte from the dress, I can tie the bow at the front, back, or the side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599963450627-8DDJMPF5U5CBRA8SQ0IG/20200908_162713.jpg Blog - 1949 “Mt. Fugi” Dress - The final step was to hem the dress and the “sleeves”. The hem was folded up an inch then up another inch, ironed, and finished by hand. The hem of the “sleeves” were folded up an 1/2 inch then another 1/2 inch, ironed and finished by hand. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1925-gemometric-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599431681781-36ZSLZQU7U2FQKLN4IFS/1925+eqyptomania.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599430161422-SCYVY0Q66FJ2M4ZCE1K6/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599429889809-GVXNHBFAEWI2T8KWBSZ2/20200727_100738.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The fiist step was to cut out all the patterns pieces from the white linen, which was the base layer of the dress. The pieces include a front and back panel that end at the high as well as 8 gores that make up the skirt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599429960925-RUD0HY75MT8M2AGNTESS/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The pattern pieces were then cut out of the red sari, which I positioned in such a way that the gold border would be placed at the hem of the dress. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599430224320-614T887T79AE72LC5ZLZ/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - Here is how all the pieces looked after being ironed and pre-assembly, just pinned on my dress form. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599430706605-OFUFNRUS1CZ9X87Z20XC/20200727_122023.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The final step before assembly as to baste the sari and linen layers together for every piece. This was done by hand usins a long needle and long runnig sitch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599430429043-W5V8UJDR9NO2ZNLNETLS/20200727_170536.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - Now it was finally time to start assembly. I first step was the put in the smocking like gathering stiches at the shoulder seam on the front panel. It was gathered down to fit the shoulder seam of the back panel and the threads tied off to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599431170988-7P76Y62HWOWEV1L8E29E/20200727_174725.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The shoulder seam was then sewn and finished by placing a piece of twill tape over the seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599431212643-1D00U8V427N6WPEPVOGG/20200727_183948.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The side seams were then sewn and finished by felling, which is shown here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599431445276-KS0DNYJFA919NVENIMDJ/20200727_143739.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - I then finsihed the armholes and neckline with some scarps of the gold border of my sari fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599432196278-9LX4KXVWEOQATMIOHK1A/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The next step was to make piping for the gores, for which I used some scraps of linen as well as some macrame cord. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599432466185-98YQDTOLJYYE1QPM1P4T/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The piping was then sewn onto the front, back, and side gores. It was not sewn on the four other gores becasue it was unecessary seeming as they would soon be sewn togther to a gore that did have piping. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599432652821-4JP2F009R4ESPIHLDGLC/20200728_115152.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - All eight gores were then sewn togther and the seams ironed opened and felled down by hand to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599432709134-TU969Z72487YTEEPU3Q7/20200728_180511.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - I then sewed piping onto the bottom of the front/back panels were the gores attach. The gores were then attached by hand using slip stiches. (which took a long time btw) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599432825725-4SEYVQQJRR5RBEMN4D97/20200729_185353.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The seam that jointed the gores and the top of the dress togther was then folded outward and sewn down by hand using whip stiches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599432958878-TGTCQZGDCBWEWEFITXWY/20200728_200326.jpg Blog - 1925 “Geometric” Dress - The final step before the dress was down was to finish the hem. For which I sewed a piece of twill tape to the outside of the hem, trimmed away the fabric under the twill tape, and folded the twill tape under and sewed it down by hand using whip stiches. https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/harvey-girl-uniform-1890s-skirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/harvey-girl-uniform-1890s-shirtwaist monthly 0.5 2024-10-26 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1949-swallow-blouse monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1907-uhm-skirt-and-blouse monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589675003888-ARQ7RMUUPVM9Z61RXXIS/IMG_20200515_125418_120.jpg Blog - 1907 “Mānoa” Skirt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589675304769-C4GEI0FC5JF2TFURTDST/20200428_155439.jpg Blog - 1907 “Mānoa” Skirt after bands were sewn before skrit was seamed together https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589675403481-XZKZ4O4US799VZ8G0D6Y/20200429_163325.jpg Blog - 1907 “Mānoa” Skirt the tarlatan interring/hem facing https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589675495634-1OIW21DIVL7Q88P8HA9I/20200502_181117.jpg Blog - 1907 “Mānoa” Skirt close up of the balayeuse https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1912-mary-crawley-dress monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589329904380-MF8C4C8KIWEOJY5U655O/20200512_101440.jpg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589329971552-WP0CI7S1H41YM48ED6V8/f5cf58b7f65c81b87a17ea313b445755.png Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble what I’m trying to re-create https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589330149000-G3WDL4NCJUIE4YXO6IEG/20200506_173644.jpg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble close up of how the seams were finished https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589330278044-CN2PU9Z99KOUBTRO6PGW/20200506_173653.jpg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble close up of the placket and closures https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589333017187-8Z0FJ2EXSFXWQOE7ORW0/20200503_093138.jpg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble close up of belt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589330839381-4K79YT0M8RVNPH3RM36D/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble pattern after all alterations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589331015938-RNRQ8N80ZB2KCL62YCK3/20200509_100931.jpg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble photo of the lace placement https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1589331160931-YXHOZP9Z8OZBNWR1O2U5/20200511_195022.jpg Blog - 1914 "Mary Crawley" Ensemble close up of how the front panel and collar were added https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1860s-sea-salt-bonnet monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1588372718655-C216LKW1I6E2U6N3CS4U/20200501_101538.jpg Blog - 1861 "Sea-Salt" Bonnet https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587246212082-6PDKFGZZQHXPJCBT1YIQ/20200411_180736.jpg Blog - 1861 "Sea-Salt" Bonnet - The first step was to cut out the pattern pieces, the crown, headpiece, and brim, from the buckram (3). Then I had to wire/tape the edges of each piece before assembly into a finish form. I first placed wire (4) around the crown using wonder clips (5) then sewed in by hand using whip stiches and a strong upholstery thread. I then covered the wire with bias tape to smooth out the rough edges and sewed it on by hand. I then covered the edge of the headpiece that attached to the crown with bias tape. I didn’t sew any wire on this edge because it was going to be attached to a piece that already had wire. The other edge, the one that was going to be attached to the brim did get wire sewn in as well as a bias tape finishing. Then I moved onto the brim, the edge that would be attached to the headpiece was finished simply with bias tape while the other had wire sewn it and was you guessed it finished with bias tape. pieces bound and wires, ready for assembly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587246309376-0RMRIYAEWPWTTYTCTT75/20200412_101923.jpg Blog - 1861 "Sea-Salt" Bonnet - The crown was then attached to the headpiece by matching center points to center points then moving outward till reaching then end of the crown. The center point pf the headpiece was the then matched to the center point of the brim and attached in a similar manner, still using a strong upholstery thread. Now it finally looked like a bonnet! finished buckram form https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587246395377-OJD4FV9VQ4XKTCJQFBCD/20200413_114811.jpg Blog - 1861 "Sea-Salt" Bonnet - I now had a finished buckram form, ready for covering. But, before I could cover in with fabric, I had to mull it, a process of covering the form with a batting type of material (6) to smooth out all the joints and prevent the fabric from catching on the form. To do this I cut two layers of batting for each pattern piece, one for the inside of the bonnet and one for the outside. I then placed the brim pieces together and sewed then to the bonnet, then came the crown pieces, and on top of them the headpiece pieces. Now I could finally cover it with fabric. bonnet mulled and ready for covering https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1587246541164-46SZCFRNGR317P25597X/20200413_142658.jpg Blog - 1861 "Sea-Salt" Bonnet - I attached the lining first, a white silk taffeta (7). The brim piece was sewn on, but before it was sewn to the tips, I placed my ties, two 26 inch long pieces of ribbon from this lovely couple (8) and sandwiched them in between the lining and the mulling. After the brim lining was sewn, I sewed the crown lining which was followed by the headpiece lining. The headpiece lining was slip stitched to the crown and brim pieces using an “invisible” thread, basically a thin fishing line. I then attached a piece of pleated lace (9), a common feature in 1860s bonnets, to the inside of the brim. Now all that the inside was all properly finished I could cover the outside. close up of lining https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1588372645432-RN0SSIXZJQB88W1ZE07D/20200501_101215.jpg Blog - 1861 "Sea-Salt" Bonnet - I covered the crown first, and I made a couple pleats in the fabric before sewing it down, another common 1860s feature. After sewing the crown piece down, I bound the brim using an antique ribbon purchased from (10) which was sewn down using the “invisible” thread. Then I cut the bavolet, which covers the back of the head and upper neck, out of the blue silk and matched the center point to the center point of the headpiece and the edges to the edges of the brim tips and pleated the rest to fit and whip stitched it down. The final step in the covering process was to cover the headpiece, which was slip-stitched to both the brim and the crown pieces. Now came the fun part, decoration! I cut a 28 inch long strip of the same antique ribbon I used to bind the brim and attached in the the center back of the bonnet, where the headpiece met the bavolet. I then attached a bow of the same ribbon to the back of the bonnet as well as flowers to the sides of the bonnet. back view https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1780s-scarlet-stays monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1627793532110-LQ0FTF05HJQCCSPQVIUH/1790s+red+stays.jpg Blog - 1780s "Scarlet" Stays https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1584674551267-EFORVPY860JZAK9O5LV3/cutting%2Bout%2Bfashion%2Blayer.jpg Blog - 1780s "Scarlet" Stays cutting out the fashion layer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1584674339151-V2FNHSM3MZI1M9Z8AO1H/biasa+tape+sewn+botom.jpg Blog - 1780s "Scarlet" Stays bias tape sewn onto the bottom of the stays https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1584675650253-NUKQRU92XOENRT73KKL8/punching+eyelets.jpg Blog - 1780s "Scarlet" Stays new eyelet placement meant for spiral lacing https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1584674617204-BIMHPYI31TCHYUH09533/all+bond+and+seams+.jpg Blog - 1780s "Scarlet" Stays view of the final stays, minus eyelets ;) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1586633312339-FGKJSUQOD8U2QB1O14DM/20200411_101200_008.jpg Blog - 1780s "Scarlet" Stays close up view of the stays https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1770s-swallowtail-jacket monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1716172660338-M8PTAH4UHZUB4401AI5W/1780s+swallowtail.jpg Blog - 1770s “Swallowtail” Jacket + Petticoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581104200230-M39B2DZ3F3IKWKF9PNMI/Caraco_jacket_in_printed_cotton%2C_1770-1790%2C_skirt_in_quilted_silk_satin%2C_1750-1790.jpg Blog - 1770s “Swallowtail” Jacket + Petticoat Inspiration - Extant Example held by the ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1770s-sunflower-stays monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1627793396969-OYNN5KQDBB1VGF3Z42A6/augusta+stays.jpg Blog - 1770s "Sunflower" Stays - Make it stand out stays are worn over a linen chemsie and a dilken petticoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581104364665-QVQ9T8EP6OJZ8QXLT0UI/tumblr_nxcpco7wML1rj95xto1_1280.jpg Blog - 1770s "Sunflower" Stays Inspiration - Extant example (5) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581370894887-QZ8BUS2LS1KGDCTJ24RJ/20200113_173622.jpg Blog - 1770s "Sunflower" Stays Here is the strength layer with the boning channels marked laying over the linen fashion layer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581371435370-BPQTOR31ONKLA0QUTLM6/boning.jpg Blog - 1770s "Sunflower" Stays Insterting the boning filing each end using a nail file and tin snips https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581371870748-1RJZYLAAUP2O547MQBER/bonign+finidhed+.jpg Blog - 1770s "Sunflower" Stays Here is how the stays look after insterting over 20 + yards of boning https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1860s-gorded-corset monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1591639522335-DUZWR0MBDLRPH121QRBZ/20200501_095409.jpg Blog - 1860s “Cornflower” Corset https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1580231517878-EAOTTJMXMB35QC9Y6EUI/2006ay0349_blue_corset_front_1864_custom_290x369_06200790.jpg Blog - 1860s “Cornflower” Corset Corset inspiration https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581373263819-EJ531MYQU7ETUQRFUXE9/Curved+busk.jpg Blog - 1860s “Cornflower” Corset How I curved my busk, I pushed out the busk at the waist then curved it back in to get that Victoiran “belly” look https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581372676283-ZF0DRP4JOOAJZH17TDA6/layers+putting+togther.jpg Blog - 1860s “Cornflower” Corset Visual aid for how I put the layer together (with the raw seams to the inside) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1581373338744-S75GPB0DE7WBBFTILWR7/image-asset.jpeg Blog - 1860s “Cornflower” Corset Here is a photo for the lacing https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/blog-christmas-at-banning-house monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1577514887832-WEPGJBMUUPZGQE71HYX7/aa.jpg Blog - Victorian Christmas at the Banning Museum https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576024928295-P4I501E6D6IYE353ND6I/Unknown.jpeg Blog - Victorian Christmas at the Banning Museum Outside view of the Banning House (https://www.banningmuseum.org) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576025406343-WGGHJGE1WIU3TAXG73NA/images.jpg Blog - Victorian Christmas at the Banning Museum Family living room inside decorated for Christmas (www.banningmuseum.org) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1577571112755-G0LDRPJT8XJ2NQQM7JW8/buggy.jpg Blog - Victorian Christmas at the Banning Museum Close up of the ensemble in the Banning Barn pointing at a mid-century Victorian buggy that I want for Christmas https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/1860s-lotus-skirt monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1604445682522-ZH81DA3DPNG9NVEYZBFY/1860s+waterbender+3.jpg Blog - 1860s “Lotus” Tiered Skirt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1578181394603-1S2O7RCKAPYCXKU2W4LX/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-01-04%2Bat%2B3.42.03%2BPM.jpg Blog - 1860s “Lotus” Tiered Skirt the petticoat Scarlett wears underneath her “BBQ Dress” (left) and my petticoat (right) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1578180990978-UJKW0U4M9F05MATBYD78/IMG_20190901_140426_198_1567374792937.jpg Blog - 1860s “Lotus” Tiered Skirt myself at the Huntington Beach “Civil War Days” wearing my dress for the first time https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/costume-college-2019-day-3 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576558046876-6MQ09UNXY2XYKK0BUXLT/gala+gown.jpeg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 My dress for the Saturday Night Gala https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576559498310-F9N8V3TWXBE726BVFB55/sherkoclac.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 Bernadette Banner in her Sherlock Holmes Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576867295357-T1YR7DF5ZZ2N9RMYKJQD/Morgan+Donner.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 Morgan Donner in her 16th Century Venican Gown https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576867638448-G5Q6LAKA9M34VA3VO0UX/bustle+gown+front.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 I didn’t catch this lovely person’s name but I adored her bustle dresss the colors are giving me “Brave” vibes. Also the people behind her are waiting to take pictures of the lovely people when they exit the runway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576867664146-R9ORQKT4H3HHYBO07Z2J/bustle+gown+back.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 Here is the back of the goregous gown. In front of her the forwd that always gathers on either side of the runway that is open for about an hour before the Gala Dinner, but many people skip the dinner and just go to the runway and see all the beautiful dresses. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576868268970-ZIEH02Q82EJZ3CI0VT6L/gala+view+2.jpeg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 Another view of my Gala gown https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576559189248-674508O321BMTNA9HKO4/5135Imo07HL.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 3 Pattern I used for my Gala Gown https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/costume-college-2019-day-2 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576468860820-SGO2B7OP6MFRC0O8FN3Y/20190726_183951_030.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 2 My Friday Night Soical/Showcase dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576469535907-BQMYGN41VJCOF2ZBOU1C/hbz-the-red-shoes-gettyimages-613458256-1498247041.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 2 Moira Shearer as Vicky Page in “The Red Shoes” (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/g10214512/best-english-british-movies) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576469081201-HMIBWQ86JAM2OE8PTDTW/20190726_083004.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 2 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576471427251-O5LKOQMK0IOWMGDTNDAV/Screen+Shot+2019-12-15+at+8.43.30+PM.png Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 2 the fabric I used for my dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/costume-college-2019-day-1 monthly 0.5 2024-10-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576124105457-PF6PLIIYNF4TTKTJFML4/Screen+Shot+2019-12-11+at+7.16.30+AM.png Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 1 My outfit for the Thursday night Pool Party which was themed “Garments of the Galaxy” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576127337671-LKLPEC56GMS1YUMXU3FU/Screen%2BShot%2B2019-12-11%2Bat%2B8.47.06%2BPM.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 1 A fellow Trekie cosplaying as Uhura from Star Trek (original series) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576126144477-61QUW9FOOZ63EI7EFVBA/Screen+Shot+2019-12-11+at+8.46.58+PM.png Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 1 The Coneheads from SNL (they were great) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576126453055-BKU7W2RGQ8PN20GOU57D/Screen%2BShot%2B2019-12-11%2Bat%2B7.17.42%2BAM.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 1 Bernadette Banner and Cathy Hay in their 1890s undergarments and Morgan Donner in her 1890s swimsuit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576126680898-UZN1AMJ5BC5G09SHZMIQ/Theenterpriseincidenthd0768.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 1 Joanne Linville playing the Commander in “The Enterprise Incident” (https://explaining-errors-in-star-trek.fandom.com/wiki/The_Enterprise_Incident) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1576467823869-AMQL2XRVC22QFLXHLFDU/20190725_183639_029.jpg Blog - Costume College 2019 Day 1 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/1920s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/1910s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/Renassiance monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/1940s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/Miscellaneous monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/1930s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/Vintage monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/Edwardian monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/1770s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/category/1780s monthly 0.5 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monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/millinery monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/Napoleonic monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/petticoat monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/bodice monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/15th+century monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/1890s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/Civil+War+era monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/blog/tag/1870s monthly 0.5 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/about daily 0.75 2024-10-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1599962269387-45DN5OZS9T7LPRP6QPGN/24999609-fc74-401f-a0f9-da843007fce6.jpg About Me https://www.agelesstailoress.com/creations daily 1.0 2025-08-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1644543814595-2UKFD0G9QBFXVSJE1RC3/20c1806c-294b-4652-a57d-b77cb97ea88b.jpg Creations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1644560233212-4Z6KMS8QOEXX55YXUOOQ/1790s%252Bred%252Bstays.jpg Creations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c3c01385-088c-4cfc-88ff-1104a5357966/1810s+regency+lilac.jpg Creations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d509aba3-bb5e-47f5-a2e5-323e459a72a7/20230303085057_IMG_7433.jpg Creations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/37dcd822-7e36-4566-ad23-3f7a3d6cf30f/IMG_6646.jpg Creations https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/49c657b9-c8fc-4656-b38f-bcbf72fcff94/1953+emerald.2.jpg Creations https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio daily 0.75 2024-06-24 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/regency monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/86532e0f-af6c-470c-817e-f1b43e46dd5c/1804_Hamilton__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1804 "Hamilton" Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/56f97a49-d90b-467f-868d-feef7dac4fa6/1812+lilac+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1812 "Lilac" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ddf9c7ca-5b31-4794-a26c-3c076a7eb441/1805_Huntington__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1805 "Huntington" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ccf5a72b-a92e-4b33-8ecf-49d99908c2fd/1832_Aquilia_Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1832 "Aquila" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/55729774-5c0d-43d8-9112-a0a2ef1d94e3/1804_Lily__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1804 "Lily" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/georgian monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e0167164-748c-43c0-882e-b4776fe31f99/1780s+italian+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Italian" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2d343fa3-6c48-42e7-8c8a-abc98a3c7efb/1780s_Amalia__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Amalia" Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0f2bfcee-099d-4b90-89a0-7dfa7650f2c3/1770s+sunflower+stays+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1770s "Sunflower" Stays https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6ab59074-43be-4c99-9405-387967c4b28c/1780s+scarlet+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Scarlet" Stays https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a8522bd0-a027-41d1-85e2-2300ffce596a/1780s_Swallowtail_Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Swallowtail" Jacket https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/victorian-1840s-to-1890s monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5f2cd770-746a-4e1e-afbb-0010f32a89f0/1860s_Sophronia__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1860s "Sophronia" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e1c0aa74-b198-4e9f-afea-d26639f41719/1839_Victoria__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1839 "Victoria" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/029571c0-6dac-4fe4-8520-e9d489b9e56c/1861_Lotus__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1861 "Lotus" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0911efa8-f7d8-4236-8e48-edb2c4948b3b/1885_Azure__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1885 "Azure" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/fa49524e-b67d-4d43-8a05-ec3b63c08cd3/1893_Royal__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1893 "Royal" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c64fa855-cf39-42a9-916c-540f5c203a14/1890s+holoku+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1890s "Ewa" Holokū https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0cce3125-26a4-4214-93a3-bf4cca21c79f/1897_Scarab__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1897 "Scarab" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c972cb55-e5cf-4587-a1e9-1b5d3fffa437/1890_Ewa__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1890 "Ewa" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/fb361769-92eb-4bb9-94f2-ae9198c0bd50/1894_Snow+Leopard__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1894 "Snow Leopard" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/52e6b794-6816-49fb-a593-984f5e39c643/1885_Waves__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1885 "Wave" Ensemble https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/edwardian-1900s-to-1910s monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/f574fd35-c2d8-41b2-a670-5734040fc693/1907_Manoa__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Edwardian (1900s-1910s) 1907 "Mānoa" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/84445071-f6a2-4cd4-a5d9-b99cb26a2bf8/1902_Garnet__Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Edwardian (1900s-1910s) 1902 "Garnet" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/23fb3ba8-e95c-4272-800c-26451ab9a263/1903+wisteria+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Edwardian (1900s-1910s) 1903 "Wisteria" Corset https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/vintage-1920s-to-1940s monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/073d9978-8aed-44cb-b1ac-e68b976b80ec/1946_Big+Sleep_Portfoilo_2.0.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1946 "Big Sleep" Suit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b8012834-bc8c-4841-8ecf-130932b76a8f/1944+haku+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1944 "Haku" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/7d66baf4-8584-4bfc-9918-704c2790842b/1946+%2522Panthera%2522+No+Show.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1946 "Panthera" Nightgown https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b749f228-4f5b-4844-b509-d5f69a5d5364/1938+hearst+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1938 "Hearst" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/104c2abe-835e-43f8-a68c-153ed747687f/WASP+uniform+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940s "WASP" WWII Uniform https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/af68a5d3-f0b7-4a9b-91e8-0c4da2f9a254/1940s+pake+holoku+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940s "Pake" Holokū https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/166d76f3-0c1f-461f-95e0-b66f76180b05/1949+chocolate+ortfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1949 "Chocolate" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ff97b7f8-7b11-420f-a346-9f2decde4c19/1940+viper+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940 "Viper" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/282cfc13-5705-47b8-a723-8f30ba8ab224/1942+arizona+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1942 "Arizona" Slacks https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8e00a00c-bd76-410e-a8bb-6e011b887330/1940s+moira+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940s "Moira" Playsuit https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/vintage-1950s-to-1960s monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d608220e-2272-4820-957b-fb79bac18e34/1955+lei+po%27o+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1955 "Lei Poʻo" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ebf08a7e-241b-4947-9ede-ec8329f3bc6f/57.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1954 "Godzilla" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/88a3f370-00fb-406b-8d05-4cacb7a1d0a0/manoa+holoku+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Mānoa" Holokū https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4cdb477e-a44a-48c4-a147-02fbabcad057/1950s+cinderella+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Cinderella" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2cd0a89a-5c56-480c-bc69-8dd2df337e7b/1956+ko%27ae+kea.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1956 "Ko'ae Kea" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4c2ffa36-1190-48d8-b589-a99627a69a91/1955+aurora+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1955 "Aurora" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/774fec80-111b-4d64-a90d-eb9e7021a505/1950s+Tigress+portfoilo.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Tigress" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/052210eb-e4da-4805-94ae-f620f892b0ff/67.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Astra" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a350c932-131e-4e40-8027-00d4fc7b1b8b/1952+roman+dress.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1952 "Roman" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b2174767-94be-424c-9b5e-bc7af1c90f33/1953+emerald+dress+portfolio.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1953 "Emerald" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8c26f0e5-eb24-4808-a642-e79153c2a247/63.png Portfolio - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1956 "Aphrodite" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/cosplay-crossover monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/776e3c71-2958-491f-9328-60590efc1f91/camp+jupiter+portfolio.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1940s "Camp Jupiter" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8a5ba70c-7bdf-4848-9b87-c82dc97d3669/1940s+Camp-Half+Blood+%28Updated%29+Portfoilo.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1940s "Camp Half-Blood" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c905cd2d-e672-456d-bc9d-df36110c68e0/shadow+and+bone+portfolio.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1940s "Heartrender" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ea2981a0-5151-4706-99a0-1fb5a3edc5a9/1950s+tos+command+portfolio.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1950s "Command" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/53558d44-840a-4452-9c11-85c35671782f/1950s+tos+science+portfolio.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1950s "Science" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e132a6b1-07d3-4529-bd7e-d08793d9b44c/1950s+tos+red+shirt+portfolio.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1950s "Red Shirt" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/c312283f-bfd8-4aad-a1e8-5249c9d375ce/1968+queen%27s+gambit+portfolio.png Portfolio - Cosplay + Crossover 1968 "Queen's Gambit" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio/miscellaneous-costumes monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1d1e1eb0-8b34-44fc-864f-6bf072541cf3/1490s+gamurra+portfolio.png Portfolio - Miscellaneous Costumes 1490s "Terre Verte" Gamurra https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2d21a822-b5af-4bc3-98c7-dce00d2dc8d3/yukata+portfolio.png Portfolio - Miscellaneous Costumes Yukata https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5ebb56ca-8aa8-4cb1-916b-686d949588bf/dirndl+portfolio.png Portfolio - Miscellaneous Costumes "Ocktoberfest" Dirndl https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3d3bcd66-fb8d-4080-a666-702147f83e63/1950s+balletcore+portfolio.png Portfolio - Miscellaneous Costumes 1950s "Balletcore" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile daily 0.75 2024-08-18 https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/vintage-1920s-to-1940s monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a0858e09-3379-4838-b70b-8594ddc8b6f6/1946_Big+Sleep_Portfoilo+2_2.0.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1946 "Big Sleep" Suit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8b49f01e-82d2-4746-86e9-de66d45d7f8d/1944+haku+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1944 "Haku" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0019d708-9b51-45a6-bd39-ef3c837fd0c9/1946+%2522Panthera%2522+No-Show+Mimi.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1946 "Panthera" Nightgown https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/16f7521e-726f-4696-bbaf-9a3561b40ed5/1938+hearst+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1938 "Hearst" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/046a87c2-b773-45f9-bbb1-a455e36cb8ab/WASP+uniform+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940s "WASP" WWII Uniform https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/60eccd6a-df43-4ac4-b6b4-01ab86231f3b/1940s+pake+holok%C5%AB+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940s "Pake" Holokū https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4906e1cf-806f-4a74-9325-bee8e3de50fd/1949+chocolate+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1949 "Chocolate" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b20e5d2e-ea1c-4c18-b525-00e90fba76eb/1940+viper+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940 "Viper" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8f35ee6f-a2bf-4ddd-b05a-50edbf7dd643/1942+arizona+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1942 "Arizona" Slacks https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d9779851-8cf6-4ed6-834f-602633024a74/1940s+moira+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1920s-1940s) 1940s "Moira" Playsuit https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/victorian monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/94855bef-fbff-4427-89d2-3446880e2d24/1860s_Sophronia_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1860s "Sophronia" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1debcab2-85db-4a07-86d5-33419fb3a4f2/1839_Victoria_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1839 "Victoria" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/70a98477-b13c-4a91-8a84-6b12644d503b/1861_Lotus_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1861 "Lotus" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5b78e816-d960-435b-8478-d52b86881a35/1885+azure+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1885 "Azure" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2ba210a4-ad72-4a64-96ca-58f3faa5557b/1893_Royal_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1893 "Royal" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/a3ecfd4f-3455-4a65-bb6c-5af3f6f9749c/1890s+holoku+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1890s "Ewa" Holokū https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4b20b7a8-4235-4435-a5a9-dea799da35e5/1897+scarab+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1897 "Scarab" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6501f7be-fc62-4545-8a5d-d44f86ccd564/1890_Ewa_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1890 "Ewa" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/06c1de37-a506-4ac7-a350-a3c25e1d883d/1894+snow+leopard+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1894 "Snow Leopard" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/3650ed45-1414-4603-bf65-126c98badf92/1885+wave+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Victorian (1840s-1890s) 1885 "Wave" Ensemble https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/edwardian monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6e85acde-2bac-4372-a87c-9b93e80fae3f/1907+manoa+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Edwardian (1900s-1910s) 1907 "Mānoa" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/bdf232b9-d292-4979-9a10-34eeec249d48/1902+garnet+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Edwardian (1900s-1910s) 1902 "Garnet" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d025fa85-dd49-44a5-b950-a0117543c7ae/1903+wisteria+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Edwardian (1900s-1910s) 1903 "Wisteria" Corset https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/vintage-1950s monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/9d76f23a-c079-4382-91a0-31fa18365568/59.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1955 "Lei Poʻo" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d67b38b6-195f-465a-86d7-bb5424d706b7/57.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1954 "Godzilla" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2b686bb4-601c-49e3-890f-a99f938b64e3/65.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Mānoa" Holokū https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/45a74320-69cb-4c70-83ab-70838f087f14/1950s+cinderella+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Cinderella" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/59fbd0d8-70cf-4ff5-811f-d3a65e137e96/1956+ko%27ae+kea+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1956 "Ko'ae Kea" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1a12d019-e1ac-4c07-82a2-ede611528819/60.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1955 "Aurora" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/6c7c766c-a45e-4fc3-8786-e1d8bbafdb4b/66.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Tigress" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/aeeed124-b4d5-4400-b9b5-2babd35f4eb7/67.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1950s "Astra" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e8cfe9f0-1001-42a3-9c6d-fc0f125aa665/1952+roman+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1952 "Roman" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/5534c055-c9ee-473c-9f89-52127983bd16/1953+emerald+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1953 "Emerald" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1b503a43-998e-4d56-bad4-55ca0091263b/63.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Vintage (1950s-1960s) 1956 "Aphrodite" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/cosplay monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e88ccdd7-9199-430b-b212-301f12b958e4/camp+jupiter+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1940s "Camp Jupiter" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/e6b75206-7835-4008-be0f-79c4c82a1fbb/1940s+Camp+Half-Blood+%28Updated%29+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1940s "Camp Half-Blood" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/01db9339-ddc0-478a-af7b-afecfbf45815/1950s+tos+command+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1950s "Command" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/783aa301-9bdf-4354-8526-bf3ee14b405d/shadow+and+bone+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1940s "Shadow and Bone" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0b44c785-4592-476a-b5fe-d0934f4468b4/1950s+tos+science+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1950s "Science" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/ad210a57-d73d-4f2c-873c-b3a1419b4b66/1950s+tos+res+shirt+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1950s "Red Shirt" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/77990439-73cf-4966-b866-fe706804c5d0/1968+queens+gambit+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Cosplay + Crossovers 1968 "Queen's Gambit" Ensemble https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/miscellaneous monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/8d90cee6-350d-4e62-9cd8-52e7c810296a/1490s+gamurra+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Miscellaneous Costumes 1490s "Terre Verte" Gamurra https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1d536778-5f38-4a46-86e0-f04538df4595/yukata+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Miscellaneous Costumes Yukata https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/0989950c-bd17-458b-86d3-6c72c51950d9/dirndl+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Miscellaneous Costumes "Oktoberfest" Dirndl https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/89b7df75-f0c7-4386-85e0-20e6521f8745/1950s+balletcore+portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Miscellaneous Costumes 1950s "Balletcore" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/regency monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/26cc70df-5e19-4cfc-ae8f-b7c274cb81c4/1804+hamilton+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1804 "Hamilton" Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/378f8b9a-e6dc-4a66-bd54-a784d741ad5c/1812_Lilac_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1812 "Lilac" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/b0e7841f-684b-4d84-896f-d9128d5b9a96/1832_Aquilia_Portfolio+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1832 "Aquila" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/d01f22ad-fd72-4b23-afdd-019d9c20c641/1805+huntington+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1805 "Huntington" Ensemble https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/aefd4fe2-2411-42c7-a142-ad8831e23b39/1804+lily+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Regency (1800s-1830s) 1804 "Lily" Dress https://www.agelesstailoress.com/portfolio-mobile/georgian monthly 0.5 2024-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/2f8a09c0-cb61-4eb6-ae53-31b0d33019c9/1780s+italian+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Italian" Dress https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1d7a0de7-27c3-4e3e-9a7d-db47a84e9c53/1780s+amalia+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Amalia" Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/1c921a1f-9c16-4331-bc81-14f6092f5a6c/1770s+sunflower+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1770s "Sunflower" Stays https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/17844563-542e-4e6f-984b-99cead384e21/1780s+scarlet+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Scarlet" Stays https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dedabfda3d7af2d95d36c86/4d4e0112-a6bf-4965-9ad6-32d233595358/1780s+swallowtail+portfoilo+2.png Portfolio (Mobile) - Georgian (1710s-1790s) 1780s "Swallowtail" Jacket